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TR6 TR-6 Clutch Fork Taper Pin-Torque ?

JC1

Freshman Member
Offline
Hello.. I've owned a TR-6 for 30+ years, and always tightened
the clutch fork taper pin until it was "good and snug". Not at all precise.

Does anyone have any guidance regarding the recommended tightening torque for this pin ? I have checked several workshop manuals and found nothing. I set up a new fork/pin/shaft assembly and applied 36 inch pounds of torque to the pin. This seemed to be pretty tight to me. I obviously do not want to overtighten. I have a used fork in my collection with a large crack at the pin hole threads, which may/may not be due to over-tightening. Would appreciate your recommendations.
Thanks...
 
I don't know an exact torque value to use; but I've always used considerably more than 36 inch pound; more like 10 ftlb.
 
My torque wrench barely goes that low.

I guess there's not much worry down there, and it's lock-wired anyway, but that just seems low.

I'm going to guess that because of the taper, anything more will just be wasted effort and risk snapping the pin? Is that why?
 
I believe the taper on the pin is what actually hold it all tight. Once you have the taper seated extra torque won't provide any benefit and you run the risk of breaking the pin. The taper pins are made out of a hardened metal and can be brittle. Once the pin is broken the only way to get the fork off the shaft is to either cut up the clutch shaft and remove in pieces or try to drill it out which can be tricky. I recommend making it snug then installing the safety wire to prevent movement.
 
SAFTY WIRE....
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dang
 
sd80mac7204 said:
I believe the taper on the pin is what actually hold it all tight.

Not entirely. The taper locks the pin to the shaft; but then what locks the pin to the fork? There is always some side clearance in the threads (otherwise they wouldn't turn at all). I can't prove it, but I rather suspect that having the pin too loose is, at least partly, what leads to them breaking.
 
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