TR2/3/3A TR-3A light switches

[Arrow]

It's been a long time since my TR-3 was driven-translation is I can't remember how the light switches work. I am re-wiring the car. I get the two stage parking lot and headlight switch. But the panel lights?? I believe the panel (gauge) lights work off the headlight switch so they have to be on for the panel to work. Is this correct and why would a driver want parking or headligths on without panel lights? I am making my own harness so I can wire them however. I have had the car since 1967 but have had it off the road since 1980-but it will soon be like new. Thanks Tom

 

[Geo Hahn]

...I believe the panel (gauge) lights work off the headlight switch so they have to be on for the panel to work. Is this correct and why would a driver want parking or headligths on without panel lights?...

Correct. I suppose if you were daylight driving with the sidelamps or headlamps on you would not turn on the panel lights.

You do not mention your year -- but be aware that wiring and switch location changed when the panel light went from on-off to being a rheostat. You'll want to be sure you have the right wiring diagram. Also, the wiper wiring changed though not at the same pint, again the correct diagram is helpful.

 

[TR3driver]

Main reason for turning the panel lights off is when you are driving a dark road at night. Having the light from the instruments in your peripheral vision cuts down on night vision by quite a bit; meaning that you can't see as far up the road. Less important with modern headlights, perhaps, but still valid.

This diagram should be pretty close, if your 3A has the switch instead of the later rheostat. But it still shows the gauges in the wrong locations in the panel (I didn't fix that part).

 

[Arrow]

I just don't recall how I managed the lights some 34 years ago. I suspect I just left the panel light switch on all the time. It wa a push pull not rheostat. I guess I'll just wire it the same. Thanks for the replies.

 

[6TTR3A]

The panel lights work off the S-1 connector on the light switch, not the S-2 connector. The S-2 connector is for the headlights only. Randall's wiring diagram clearly shows that. The switch is designed so when you pull it out to the first "stop", side lights come on and and panel lights come on, if you have the push-pull panel switch "pulled". When you twist the "side head" switch 20º clockwise and pull again the headlights come on and the side lights stay on.


Arrow, I give you credit for doing your own wiring harness ! When I did my TR3A restoration, if there was an aftermarket wiring harness available, I sure couldn't afford it. My budget was aimed at more important things (drive train!) Fortunately, there had never been a major "melt down" in my wiring harness. I removed it from the car, stripped the vinyl wrapping (post 70.000) back far enough to see brightly colored (color coded) wires, cut and moved them out of the harness so they were visible at the external connector(s), spliced in generic red or black 14, or 16 ga. inside the harness, and then re-wrapped it in vinyl. All connections soldered and shrink-wrapped. It looks great but if you were to open up my harness, there would be nothing but red & black wires!
I think Lucas made the harnesses back then, so there were lots of "short cuts", especially with grounds that are frustrating to the restorer.

 

[Brinkerhoff]

I changed all my dash lamp bulbs to LEDs from Moss. Glad I did. Frankly the originals are useless , even when turned up from "glow " to "full dim".

 

[TR3driver]

Frankly the originals are useless , even when turned up from "glow " to "full dim".

Mine seem to work well enough, after cleaning and painting the inside of the gauges plus installing new windows. But I don't have the rheostat (and have never wished that I did).