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TR 3 Valve Cover nuts - how tight

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Tinkerman

Tinkerman

Darth Vader
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I finally got my valve cover cap problem squared away (the valve cover stem had been over plated). My next question is how tight on the valve cover nuts? Did not see any info on the torque requirements in the work shop manual. Any one have any ideas?

Thanks, Tinkerman
 
Snug and half a turn{slowly}. Its a feel thing. Dont make it too complicated.
 
Thanks John I do tend to over engineer. Too bad they didn't have the fore-sight to bolt the cover down with 4 edge bolts. Do you recommend putting any sealer on it?
Thanks, Dick
 
I use Hylomar on the cork gasket. A new gasket seems to take a set over time and require additional tightening but I reuse the cork many time over the years just being sure to put it back on the same orientation as it was before.

If you do use an adhesive (some do) you'd want the gasket glued to the cover, not the head -- though I don't think the shape of the edge of the stock cover realy lends itself to that technique.
 
Back when I used a cork gasket, I liked to glue it to the cover using one of the heavier-bodied RTV compounds (black or red). Let it set just long enough to hold the cork in place, then just set the cover cork side down on a flat surface and let it try thoroughly. After the RTV is fully hardened, smear the other side with a little Hylomar and install with the nuts snug (not very tight).

When you remove the cover for maintenance, just clean the gasket surface with a bit of solvent and apply more Hylomar. It should last for several years of annual valve adjustments.

Now of course I use one of Justin's silicone gaskets, which seals fine without added sealer.

Note that there are supposed to be flat washers and fiber sealing washers under the nyloc nuts. Justin supplies special sealing washers with the silicone gasket.
 
I essentially do it the same way as Randall with two exceptions. For gluing the cork gasket (yes, I still use cork, it works fine)to the valve cover I use weatherstrip adhesive, either the yellow or black. After it dries in place, I just smear heavy wheel bearing grease on the surface of the cork when it meets the head. The cover always comes off easily, and a quick smear of new grease and your good to go. I've had covers on and off dozens of times using this method with no leakage.
 
Thanks to all of you for your suggestions. I used Art's method because I had the adhesive on hand.
Now if someone could just tell me where the cap decal is........................
Tinkerman
 
Tinkerman said:
My next question is how tight on the valve cover nuts? Did not see any info on the torque requirements in the work shop manual. Any one have any ideas?Thanks, Tinkerman
Click to expand...
TR4 work shop manual lists torque for rocker cover as 2 lbs.ft.
 
Tr3aguy said:
I need your garage Jay!!!!
Click to expand...

Really, what a great, diverse collection.... Picture perfect!
 
Might as well mention that Joe A makes some really nice "Le Mans style" valve cover nuts with O-ring seals:

VSD-T26.jpg


https://the-vintage-racer.com//index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=5&products_id=30
 
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