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TR2/3/3A TR-3 steering box info ?

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AFAIK, everyone wants to rebuild yours. But you might give Mike Macy a call; there's some chance he has a box available in your configuration.

Don't forget that there are 4 variations of long shaft box; depending on fixed/adjustable steering wheel and left or right hand steer.

BTW, I have a NOS RHS worm on a split shaft, if anyone is interested. Could be entertaining if you installed it in a LHS car ... you would have to turn the wheel to the right to turn the car to the left.
 
I agree with TR3 Driver. With the help from him and others on BCF and along with my Hains manual I was able to replace the worm gear in my box. Along with a replacing some bad internal parts and then properly shimming the front cover. I could not believe the difference that it made in my steering. In fact i put out a message that I never knew that TR3 steering could be like this.
Mine has been on the road since 1982 and this is the best the steering has ever been. In fact I would not let anyone else drive the car in recent years because it was so bad. It wondered all over the road. I have to believe that owners that complain that their steering is too tight must have the front cover shims too tight (end float) and binding that bearings. Which would make the worm gear too hard to turn.
In the cardboard box that the used replacement box came in was a odd steering box cover that had a rather large adjuster on it with springs. Through messages on the forum it was discovered that it is a special made cove that was used to keep pressure on the cam follower pin to keep the car from wondering while driving in a straight line. I sand blasted it and painted it up and put it together on my old box. I must first admit that I did not know how to adjust it and it did not work on my car. I'm also sure the original worm gear was too far gone. I'm thinking of selling it on Ebay. But my point is watch for gimmicks.

I toiled with the thought of going with rack a and pinion conversion but like you I wanted to keep it authentic. I'm very glad I did what I did and am enjoying the drive more than ever. I do have a question that is the sealing ring on the front cover that seals the around the wiring harness. Is there suppose to be a split in the ring? Seems like it would not seal with that split. Mine leaks oil and may be why the original gear went bad.
 
Hi rlandrun, You are correct, the stator tube does go through the bottom of the steering box and you do have to cancel manually. I am still working to find a better way. Good Luck, Bill C. Mesa, AZ
 
TR3ATR250 said:
I do have a question that is the sealing ring on the front cover that seals the around the wiring harness. Is there suppose to be a split in the ring?
Click to expand...
The one on TS39781 has that split; but I thought it was just broken. Haven't looked at the others carefully enough to know. But the box on TS39781 didn't leak enough to worry about, I just topped it up about once a year (along with the rest of the chassis lubrication) and it never took very much. The split in the ring seems to crush closed when you tighten the nut.
 
I have been speaking with Ted Smith of British Auto Restorations in Roanoke, VA. There is no web site for them, his phone number is 540 989-5121 the rack he offers is bolt in and I have seen many people refer positively to the unit he sells (i believe you can keep strg wheel horn signal as is with his kit.) It has gotten a bit pricey since I first looked a couple of years ago.

Good luck!
Griff
 
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