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Tips

TR 3 Starter Switch

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Tinkerman

Tinkerman

Darth Vader
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Has anyone ever taken a starter switch apart? I have two, but one is really grody looking but seems to work fine. The other one looks newer but sounds real gritty when I operate it. They both passed the continuity check. I'm concerned about the bakelite body breaking if I really get after it. My sad experience from the past gives me pause here so if anyone could shed some light I would appreciate it!

Thanks, Tinkerman
 
Tinkerman said:
...I have two, but one is really grody looking but seems to work fine. The other one looks newer but sounds real gritty...
Click to expand...

Since no one else replied... why wouldn't you just use the knob and nut from the nice one and the (hidden) works from the ugly one?

As for opening it up -- I tend to be fearless in such matters though this particular switch has never fallen victim to my urge to fix & improve.
 
Its so simple to clean you dont really need to take it clear apart,just hit it with contact cleaner,then clean it up the excess.Its designed to last a least 50 years,which some already have......
MD
 
Upon closer inspection the older one is quite a bit looser then the other and is clearly a well used switch. After more cleaning with the contact cleaner it seems to be much better so I guess that answers my question.

Thanks for your thoughts, Tinkerman
 
Did you know that the tiny serrations on a dime will hold the dime securely between the lugs where the wires are connected - at least it works on my 1958 TR3A. If you find you have lost your key, it takes only a second to reach up under the dash and "squeeze" the dime into place securely.

Then you can "steal" your own TR without having a key !

Or you can steal someone elses TR !

Or someone might steal yours !

Think about it. This is why I remove the rotor when I park my TR3A in a place where I can't keep an eye on it or if I'm leaving it unattended for longer than 15 minutes.
 

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Priceless information, heh............
 
I tried a dime in my switch and it didn't come close to fitting in there. Must be a fat dime.
 
Don Elliott said:
This is why I remove the rotor when I park my TR3A
Click to expand...
Thanks for the tip, Don. I'll keep a rotor handy in case I need to 'borrow' your car :troll:
:crazyeyes:
 
Don Elliott said:
Did you know that the tiny serrations on a dime will hold the dime securely between the lugs where the wires are connected - at least it works on my 1958 TR3A. If you find you have lost your key, it takes only a second to reach up under the dash and "squeeze" the dime into place securely.

Then you can "steal" your own TR without having a key !

Or you can steal someone elses TR !

Or someone might steal yours !

Think about it. This is why I remove the rotor when I park my TR3A in a place where I can't keep an eye on it or if I'm leaving it unattended for longer than 15 minutes.
Click to expand...
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
Don: Aren't you going to tell us about that oil gauge extension?
What's that all about?

Frank
 
Frank - That extension tube on my oil gauge is "original". It has been there since I bought TRusty brand new almost 52 years ago. What do you have ?
 
Randall - You don't even need to carry a spare rotor . I remove my rotor so the TR won't start and leave it fully exposed beside the master cylinder assembly so I don't lose it. Most people would give up if it wouldn't start. They wouldn't even know how to open the engine compartment. And they wouldn't even know to look in my door pocket for the "T" handle.

If you want to steal my TR3A, I know you would find a way. But I'm not worried about you. It's the vandals (not the Randalls) that I'm concerned about.

Regards - Don
 
I'm kidding, Don, just trying to point out that perhaps it's best to not advertise such things on a public forum. And anyone smart enough to figure out the starter button & handbrake isn't going to have any trouble with the budget locks (my pocket knife turns them just fine).

None of the TRs I've owned or dismantled has had that compression union on the oil line. Just a single steel line from the gauge all the way to the flexible line in the engine compartment. The fitting on the gauge serves as the union.
 
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