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TR2/3/3A TR-3 engine won't start after rebuild

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rustyone2

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I am in serious need of a TR-3 expert. I had the crank of a TR-3 engine ground for a new rear oil seal and I cannot get the reassembled engine to even start. Carbs were ruilt by TRF, as was the distributor, valves ground, etc, Car cranks at a rapid pace and gives a faint puff, puff, puff as I try using starter fluid. Any experts, meaning those who have disassemble and reassembled a TR-3 engine successfully? I would assume you have had this problem and resolved it.

Russ Lee
 
Never worked on a TR3, but there are a few very common and universial mistakes everyone makes from time to time. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif

Assuming that the engine is assembled correctly, make sure you actually have spark.

Make sure the distributor is in correctly. Verify that #1 cylinder is at top dead center of the compression stroke with the timing marks lined up when you install the distributor. Your shop manuals should tell you what the rotor in the distributor should be pointing at.

I think just about everyone who works on cars has installed a distributor 180 degrees out because they had the timing marks lined up at TDC of the exhaust stroke. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/blush.gif

Don't assume the problem is serious or complicated. Check the simple stuff first. The small things seem to be the cause of the most frustration.

Most importantly, don't work on your car when you are frustrated or angry. It will only lead to even more frustration/anger, and broken things. Take a break, have a beer, relax, then look at it again when your fresh. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cheers.gif
 
[ QUOTE ]
...Verify that #1 cylinder is at top dead center of the compression stroke with the timing marks lined up when you install the distributor. Your shop manuals should tell you what the rotor in the distributor should be pointing at...


[/ QUOTE ]

Should be pointing at the number 1 plug... of course you'll want to take a peek at the valves to be double-darn sure it is the compression stroke.

I'd have to agree with the thought of checking the ignition first (spark and timing) given that you're not getting fire with the starting fluid.
 
I'll have to go along with Mark on this one. I can't tell you how many times I have tried to make something complicated out of something simple. It might help if you got a another person to help. They might see or think of something that you don't.
 
Russ--You may have lost your timing at the cam. Before you removed the crank, did you match-mark it's sprocket to the cam's chainwheel? If not, then you need to re-establish the correct relationship between the two using Bentley's procedure. Best wishes!

Rick O.
 
A really sharp mechanic once showed me a trick to check cam timing, put a level on the #4 rocker arms(after block is level by jacking up rear of car) when the bubble is is dead on, the crank mark had better be at the pointer or you have a big problem.
MD(mad dog)
 
One other wild thought , if the intake manifold isnt seated due to interferance with a header you will get this symtom.....
MD
 
I agree with everything that has been said, but no has said anything about valves, check and make sure that they are set right, if valves are not closing will not let it start or the other way.
 
Just a brief thought. Might be a compression problem. I've had this happen when I did'nt seat the rings properly on the cylinder.
You'll get er goin!
 
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