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TR-2 Winshield Removal from Frame - Success!

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Mark_Gibson

Mark_Gibson

Jedi Trainee
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I just wanted to pass on a few things I learned while removing the windshield from the frame in my TR-2 resto project:

1. The screws that hold the bottom section of the frame in place were designed by people who figured they would NEVER have to be removed.

2. A sharp drill set is invaluable in drilling out the aforementioned screws.

3. A big hammer and a block of wood is especially handy to seperate the bottom frame rail once the screws are drilled out.

4. The hammer also comes in handy with a thin flat bladed screwdriver to get the glass out of the frame channel.

5. The Roadster Factory actually has the 2 "L" brackets that hold the frame together. Good thing since once mine were drilled out, they were also so rusty they literally fell apart once I goth them out.

6. Removing a windshield is best done out in the garage, or else you could do it in a carpeted basement and have to vacuum up glass shards for 30 minutes. Tough choice!

7. Beer is good for you.

/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/hammer.gif
 
[ QUOTE ]
7. Beer is good for you.

[/ QUOTE ]

You only just learned that? /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/thirsty.gif

Congrats on getting the windshield frame apart. I've not tried it on TR2/3 (yet), but I understand it can be a bugger. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/hammer.gif

/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cheers.gif
 
Oh, yeah - I remember doing mine. Those little l-brackets looked like they were fished out of the Titanic!

Glad you met with success; feels good, doesn't it?

Mickey
 
Thanks guys. It is a good feeling. Would have been a better feeling if I had worn gloves the whole time! Note to self: Wear gloves, or have plenty of band aids!
 
Two words Mark.
Brookland windscreens /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif
 
Mark, For sealing the new glass in place, you might want to try one of the new silicone or butyl window caulks (20 year) on the market. I've used each type once with great success (no leaks) and it's sooo much easier than trying to install it using that original rubber strip. Just give it plenty of time to cure and clean/scrape off any excess with a razor blade..
Tom Lains
 
The original rubber strip on my TR3A was not rubber. It was a fabric-like canvas impregnated with black rubber. I re-used it at least twice in its first life. When I restored my TR in 1987 to 1990, the new rubber strip was not rubber. It was foam. It was an open cell foam. It stretched about 20% when I put it in. The open cell (as opposed to closed cell) foam let the rain come right through as TRTEL wrote above. I bought the newest rubber strip but it was too thick to bend over and hold in place so I re-used the foam again. You need the silicone or similar sealer all around. If you only do the bottom of the windscreen, rain water will flow up the windscreen as you are driving and it'll come through the top, dripping all over your legs.

If I had to do it again, I think I'd make my own black tape from canvas like it was originally. It fills the gap and adds some cushioning effect.

Don Elliott, Original Owner, 1958 TR3A, TS 27489 LO

https://www.britishcarforum.com/ubbthreads/photopost/showphoto.php/photo/1919/ppuser/4127
 
Thanks for the advice. I'll definitely keep that caulk in mind. I was planning on having a local window glass shop install the new one for me, as they did a great job on my 6. This part of the project is probablly a year away anyways, as the next step is to send the frame out to be rechromed.
 
Mark - If you decide to change the "lift-a-dot" pegs for the top, that screw in along the top of your re-chromed frame, please take note that the replacement pegs for the top have longer threaded ends on them. You don't want to break your new glass windscreen when you put it in. So screw one in and check how much it is intruding into the area where the glass will fit. Then shorten the threaded ends of all your new pegs to avoid this costly mistake.

Don Elliott
 
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