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Toyota 5 Speed - Truck or Supra?

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HealeyRick

HealeyRick

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I did the Smitty conversion about 15 years ago and am thinking of selling the kit and 5 speed. I've been asked whether I have the truck or Supra tranny and I don't have a clue. The engine and tranny are out of the car and are connected as a unit. Can I determine which one I have by rotating the crank while the tranny is in first gear and counting the revolutions on the output? What should the count be on the output shaft?
 
The gear ratios will tell you which box you have . There is also a good page on Wikipedia that lists the major differences between all the W series Toyota gearboxes. The other question you may get is whether or not the "sandwich plate" is steel or aluminum alloy. The steel sandwich plates are usually black and are obviously magnetic. The steel plate boxes have some larger bearings and gears but either box is more than enough for any of our purposes. They are getting pretty hard tto find compared to a decade ago so it may be worth more than you think.
 
The W58/Supra is the only W-series box with a 0.78 5th gear. All others are ~0.85.

Simplest way to differentiate is to rotate the input shaft with 5th gear selected.

Put a mark on the output shaft to allow easy counting. To turn the input, use a clutch disc that has a "counting" mark on it or a set of locking pliers (and something soft to protect shaft) on pilot section of input.

Rotate input, counting the turns as you go, while someone counts 10 rotations of the output shaft. This should take a little over 7-3/4 turns of the input for the W58/Supra box. If it takes ~8-1/2 turns it is not a W58/Supra box. The reason for recommending 10 turns of output is that it is easier to differentiate between 7-3/4 and 8-1/2 than between 0.78 and 0.85 turns at the input shaft.

There are differences in the 1st gear ratios of the non-W58/Supra boxes, so performing a similar test should allow differentiating between the various non-W58/Supra options.
 
CraigC said:
The W58/Supra is the only W-series box with a 0.78 5th gear. All others are ~0.85.

Simplest way to differentiate is to rotate the input shaft with 5th gear selected.

Put a mark on the output shaft to allow easy counting. To turn the input, use a clutch disc that has a "counting" mark on it or a set of locking pliers (and something soft to protect shaft) on pilot section of input.

Rotate input, counting the turns as you go, while someone counts 10 rotations of the output shaft. This should take a little over 7-3/4 turns of the input for the W58/Supra box. If it takes ~8-1/2 turns it is not a W58/Supra box. The reason for recommending 10 turns of output is that it is easier to differentiate between 7-3/4 and 8-1/2 than between 0.78 and 0.85 turns at the input shaft.

There are differences in the 1st gear ratios of the non-W58/Supra boxes, so performing a similar test should allow differentiating between the various non-W58/Supra options.
Click to expand...
How can i check with transmission connected and in car?
 
If you are hitting your elbow on your seat back when you shift into second or fourth you most likely have a Supra transmission. If your stick comes up in roughly the same place as a BJ8 centershift transmission than you have the truck box.
 
Richard--

I don't think that is a good test as there are different tower options on all the boxes.
 
I have a W58 and there are 3 available shift tower/linkage locations. I am not sure but I think most of the W series gearboxes are changeable in that way.
 
Yes, there are different tower locations. But, in order to change the location you have to split the transmission and purchase different connecting links and a different tower. It's not complicated but then again it's not an easy changeover and I doubt many people have attempted it.
Every W59 truck transmission I have ever seen has the tower in the most forward position. Every W58 Supra transmission I have ever seen has the tower in the #3 rearward position. (There are actually 5 different stick positions with the W series transmissions, two or which extend beyond the back of the tower - but those are in different models. )
 
I think all you need to do to change shift towers is have the shift lever and tower set that you want to install, pop the 6 bolts that secure the shift tower and remove the tower with the old shift lever and drop the new one in. The rubber oil barrier gasket has to be changed but they are readily available from the parts houses that sell transmission parts. No need to drain the oil or remove the gearbox from the car. Unless, of course, there is something I'm forgetting.
 
So Jon, what makes you think it is that easy? Do you think I just made that up about splitting the transmission in order to change out the shift linkage?
 
When I bought my (truck) transmission from Smitty he offered me the three options for locating the shift tower. I chose forward-most and it is, to my mind, the best location as the stick lays properly to hand.

The 3000 I purchased for my ex-wife has the stick in the central location and it is not near as handy as the forward-most option.
 
While you are playing around in the shift tower, inspect the conical spring and fiber washer. Replace the washer if it showws any wear. Email me directly for pictures and a full explanation of my shifting troubles and cures. dave.jamieson@bell.net
 
Richard, you are correct. Had you reminded me that there is a need to replace the shifter yoke I would have recalled that I did that when I had the tail housing off to change out a worn speedometer drive gear. I don't suspect people make things up on this forum, but I have seen "misremembrances" before and I apparently just had one. Drain the oil you must, and remove the tail housing. Therefore the gearbox has been removed. Pulling the tail housing is pretty easy to do on the bench as long as you rember lefty loosey, righty tighty.
 
Jon, thanks for the correction. It's not the first time someone has posted the notion that only the tower needs to be changed. I'm attaching a photo showing some different length arms that are hidden inside the tranny. These arms have a socket on the end for the shifter stick. The arms are attached to a shifter rod and held on with just one bolt. There are at least 5 different length arms (and towers) used in the W series transmissions for Toyota's various models.
 

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Well, I've answered a very important question for myself. I have an excellent memory, it just happens to be good for about 8 months or perhaps a bit less, because that is how long ago I did that conversion. I had the tail housing off to change the speedo gear and of course slipped on the new link at the same time so it took zero extra time and was not the original reason I pulled the tail housing off, as I changed the speedometer drive gear before I actually had the kit from Delaney but didn't put it together until I had all the parts.
 
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