Hey - did you know if you click on the title of a thread it will take you to the first unread post since you last visited that thread?
but were afraid to ask: 
STOP!! Never post your email address in open forums. Bots can "harvest" your email! If you must share your email use a Private Message or use the 
smilie in place of the real @
Pretty Please - add it to our Events forum(s) and add to the calendar! >> 
I've got a few hundred miles on my rebuilt 3 motor and was wondering when your supposed to retorque the head?....500mi? There was some minor cracks on the cylinder head at a couple of end bolts.(caused by an over zealous helper.) Theres no oil in the antifreeze so I think everythings holding up well.Am I pushing my luck by retorqing or should I leave well enough alone? Also:How many miles before these motors are considered broken in?
-
Hey Guest!
British Car Forum has been supporting enthusiasts for over 25 years by providing a great place to share our love for British cars. You can support our efforts by upgrading your membership for less than the dues of most car clubs. There are some perks with a member upgrade!**Upgrade Now**
(PS: Upgraded members don't see this banner, nor will you see the Google ads that appear on the site.)
TR2/3/3A Torqing the head again?....rebuilt motor... TR3
- Thread starter karls59tr
- Start date
Share this page
TR3driver
Great Pumpkin - R.I.P
Offline
The book says to retorque after 1000 miles, but it certainly won't hurt to do it more than once. I definitely would retorque them at least once though, even if there's no sign of a leak. The most common leak is combustion gases into the coolant, and you likely wouldn't notice that until the gasket was ruined and had to be replaced. Good time to recheck the valve lash, too.
Your cracks sound worrisome ... do you have the special flat washers between the nuts & the head surface ? If the nuts were really tightened enough to crack the cast iron, I'd be worried about stretched studs.
After 500 miles, I'd say you're safe in driving normally. For maximum engine life you probably shouldn't go drag-racing at all /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/smile.gif but I'd at least save it for after 1000 miles or so.
Your cracks sound worrisome ... do you have the special flat washers between the nuts & the head surface ? If the nuts were really tightened enough to crack the cast iron, I'd be worried about stretched studs.
After 500 miles, I'd say you're safe in driving normally. For maximum engine life you probably shouldn't go drag-racing at all /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/smile.gif but I'd at least save it for after 1000 miles or so.
A mild note of caution also concerning those cracks. If your torque wrench was set at 100 stick with that number and don't raise it to l05. I used to regularly do that with a copper/asbestos gasket upon retorquing. No sense in aggravating a potential problem if one exists.
TR3driver
Great Pumpkin - R.I.P
Offline
I'll certainly do that as necessary, but initially I'm going to focus on getting the 56 on the road (after the Stag of course). Long-term I plan to transfer some of the performance parts from the 59 (like the 4-synchro OD trans with dipstick & alloy flywheel). But very limited tests seem to show the drivetrain in the 56 is OK (except for needing all new hoses and such) so I don't plan to swap it out immediately unless I find a problem.karls59tr said:
Initial impact was in the left rear, but it pushed me into the car in front of me so the right front is also wrecked. The whole body is tweaked and several inches shorter than it used to be, so there's not much in the way of usable sheet metal.karls59tr said:
Already sold the only decent fender to a friend. Doors are probably OK though, if anyone is interested.