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to waxol, or not to waxol

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Seeing and very small bubble on the bottom part of the cowl. Waxol it or use something else? Where's the cheapest place to get the stuff? Looks like the only way back there is pull the windshield frame out. Thinking about hole sawing the backside to get to it.
 
If you want something that really works, is absolutely great at getting inside seams, works its way under and through existing rust, and is cheap and you don't have to go shopping to get some. Use used engine oil. An old trick that does a great job of stopping rust and is especially in places where it is hard to get at. Apply it and park in a place where you don't mind some oil dripping off.
 
I make my own "waxoyl" stuff. Have for quite sometime. It is cheap and easy to make and works just the same.
 
OK, the new guy has to ask.
what's waxoy?

intrigued......
 
Anticorrosive oily waxy stuff you put on you car to keep it from rusting.
 
Waxoyl is a commercial rustproofing/inhibiting/coating/whatever product that's been around for the proverbial donkeys years. In the 70s, I subscribed to a couple of British car mags and they generally extolled it. Even bought a tub, but forgot to also buy the 'roundtuit' and I think it's still buried in the garage somewhere. My recollection is that you pressured up the container it came in with a hand pump and sprayed it into wherever. An internet search with this spelling will bring up suppliers etc. etc.
Doug
(PS: the purpose of waxoyl was to inhibit rust in the areas that the natural built-in British antirust system wouldn't reach. You know the one: gaskets; seals; ...)
 
Bill,
Just leaving for work. I'll post tonight.
 
I just googled waxoyl and found this:

Here is a recipe for home made "Waxoyl". It's an old fashioned rust treatment / undercoating:

2 1/2 quarts turpentine
12 oz. beeswax / candle wax
1 quart light machine oil

With a cheese shredder, cut the wax into the turpentine, stir until the wax has dissolved, (takes a long time; you can use very low heat (a warm room) to aid but be careful) and thin with the machine oil to a brushable / sprayable consistency. Apply liberally. You can use a hand spray bottle to get into closed-off sections if you have a small access hole.


This shouldn't be much of a challenge to put together.
 
May I suggest this be done when the vehicle can be left outside for an extended period to drip onto something like dirt.
 
Going to go out on a limb here and suggest that there are lots of products at least as good and likely better than waxoyl. I have a rattle can of stuff from Krown rust control. A lot easier and cleaner than cutting wax with a cheese shredder.
 
The trick with waxoyl is to heat it so it's thin. This way it sprays and flows and creeps and saturates. As soon as it cools it thickens somewhat, and when the solvents evaporate, it leaves a thin wax film that is self-healing. It helps to do this in a warm place and not outside when it's cold. It will only run briefly, and that's it. I also brush it on here and there and hit the ends of bolts and nuts like underneath the floor. I think the actual Waxoyl product is mineral spirit based. Turpentine has a very strong smell ( which I like, btw), Beeswax disolved in turp is an old time furniture finish.
Bill
 
Bill,

My homegrown recipe is similar to the one Nelson posted, but different too.
In a large plastic bucket (the best buckets are the ones cat litter comes in because they have a sealing plastic lid). I place --
-- 2 quarts of kerosene**
-- 1 quart of citron scented lamp oil** (just to make the mixture a little easier on the wife's nose)
-- 1 pound box of parrafin wax (found in the canning section of grocery stores or walmart...)
-- 1 quart of auto transmission fluid
**Note, you can also use diesel fuel, all kerosene or all lamp oil, whichever suits you best.

I don't grate the wax, I carefully melt it in a double boiler - (Place the wax in a stainless steel bowl and into a pan of simmering water to melt.)
Once melted, I slowly pour the wax into the above mixture and stir it with a wooden handle until mixed.

Instead of light machine oil to thin, I use transmission fluid. It turns the mixture pinkish brown, and makes it a little easier to see when sprayed or brushed in cavities or the bottom of the car.

The mixture will set up into a thick jel-liquid. The colder, the more solid.

To apply, I wait for a hot sunny day and put the bucket outside for a while to heat up and put in a cheap pump up garden sprayer to apply. The sprayer I have has a long nozzle to reach up behind the rear quarters in the boot and into the jacking holes ect..

If it is still too thick, I put the sprayer into a bucket of hot water for a while until it turns very thin and sprayable..

It will come out as a liquid, but sets up fairly quickly again after applied.

It will drip for a while, so apply somewhere outdoors where you don't mind some drips. It also occasionslly drips on very hot days when the car sits in the sun for a while.

The above recipe makes enough to last a few years for one Midget or to do several vehicles, but it stores well.
 
Yeah, the thing with waxoyl is to put it in something like hot water and let it sit and then you can spray it and work that wand in all kind of places in the tube frames that paint cannot get to. When it thickens it becomes a hard wax and stays inside for a long time.
When mine was down to the metal and just a hull, I cleaned and fixed and welded all that I could and then used por15 on places that still had rust or might rust in the future. I put thicker metal a lot of places. Then for the tubes that I could not get to, I used waxoyl. I was trying to get the best stuff I could and could not find anything better for going inside tube framing and lasting a long time while still giving off rust inhibitor to surrounding metal that might not have gotten coated and might still have rust.
As I recall, its not that expensive. It cost a little more for the pump and all but it was like $30 and for 2 liters of waxoyl. That is enough to do 10 spridgets if you use it right. Not worth my time to shave wax. I am cheap but I am willing to pay for something that I think is worth it.
You could definitely tell the difference in England when people used it in the cars over there. Its where I first saw it.
 
Waxoyl sure is popular in Britain, tons of guys use it and talk about using it on the British car websites.

You can purchase it in a spray can with an extension nozzle for smallish jobs.

There's got to be something better, easier, but I haven't found it.

Now, if you're restoring the car and have it torn apart, rustproofing is easy. But on an assembled car, ugh. My Midget has no rust, but I'd really like to apply something in the cracks and crevices. Waxoyl is hard to ignore.

Anyone else got ideas? :confuse:
 
I plan to take mine to a rustproofing place let them do it
 
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