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TR5/TR250 To header or not on my TR250?
- Thread starter gjh2007
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DougF
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Guest
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Headers were always the cheapest hp on the market when talking American cars. The Triumphs breathe pretty well in their stock configuration, so you probably are not going to gain as much as you think you would.
They look great, and I feel they add to the exhaust tone. Some will differ with me on that.
The heat is much greater unless you use a wrap or have it ceramic coated. The wrap is less expensive, but soils quickly. Since the starter is surrounded by exhaust, it is best to do something to reduce the heat.
My first header caused me nothing but grief. Hopefully I've learned from the past and the next one will provide better results.
They look great, and I feel they add to the exhaust tone. Some will differ with me on that.
The heat is much greater unless you use a wrap or have it ceramic coated. The wrap is less expensive, but soils quickly. Since the starter is surrounded by exhaust, it is best to do something to reduce the heat.
My first header caused me nothing but grief. Hopefully I've learned from the past and the next one will provide better results.
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Just got the headers on the TR8, and can't wait 'til I can finish to see how they do. I sent mine off for jet coating - $179 for the pair, and they came out looking very nice, indeed.
Mickey
Mickey
trfourtune
Jedi Knight
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definitely! 6-3-1 equal length if you can find them. ceramic coat if carbon, wrap if ss.
rob
rob
Brosky
Great Pumpkin
Offline
I went against most advice and installed the PaceSetter headers, which required some small grinding on the flanges to mate properly to the intake and a custom pipe made to mate to the stock twin exhaust. I saw an immediate increase of nearly 500 rpm at idle and much better mid to high range performance. No, I did not dyno the car, but after 30 years of driving it, I know when it runs better than before.
I bought mine from JetHot directly and got the headers with JetHot coating inside and out for less than $300.00, shipped to my office in MA.
The heat issue is non existent in my situation and I'm assuming it's from the JetHot coating. Before I bought these, I spoke to several of the techs who work on the Tasca Racing Team. I buy all of my daily drivers from their family dealership in RI. John Force, one of the Tasca drivers, is featured in JetHot's advertisement and his pit crew all swear by the coating and it's ability to enhance performance and get heat out of the engine compartment quickly. I also purchased a digital pyrometer and have taken readings of stock manifolds versus my headers. On a day with the ambient temperature at 85F and both cars being driven the same distance on the same roads, my headers were measured from a high of 205F to 195F upon shutdown and his cast iron was at 220F to 205F. 10 minutes after shutdown, I was at less than 120F and his was still at about 150F. I drove my car in stop and go traffic on the 95-100F days in the summer and never even came close to overheating. My car has the stock orange 12(?) blade fan.
I did not tune his engine, nor check any of the settings. Both engines are stock. My car's timing is set to run at 16BTDC and idles at 850RPM. I think that his is at 12-14BTDC and idles about 900RPM. Neither car is running lean or rich and both have new plugs, wires, cap and rotor, and electronic ignitions.
That's about it. And I would buy them again if I was doing another TR6.
I bought mine from JetHot directly and got the headers with JetHot coating inside and out for less than $300.00, shipped to my office in MA.
The heat issue is non existent in my situation and I'm assuming it's from the JetHot coating. Before I bought these, I spoke to several of the techs who work on the Tasca Racing Team. I buy all of my daily drivers from their family dealership in RI. John Force, one of the Tasca drivers, is featured in JetHot's advertisement and his pit crew all swear by the coating and it's ability to enhance performance and get heat out of the engine compartment quickly. I also purchased a digital pyrometer and have taken readings of stock manifolds versus my headers. On a day with the ambient temperature at 85F and both cars being driven the same distance on the same roads, my headers were measured from a high of 205F to 195F upon shutdown and his cast iron was at 220F to 205F. 10 minutes after shutdown, I was at less than 120F and his was still at about 150F. I drove my car in stop and go traffic on the 95-100F days in the summer and never even came close to overheating. My car has the stock orange 12(?) blade fan.
I did not tune his engine, nor check any of the settings. Both engines are stock. My car's timing is set to run at 16BTDC and idles at 850RPM. I think that his is at 12-14BTDC and idles about 900RPM. Neither car is running lean or rich and both have new plugs, wires, cap and rotor, and electronic ignitions.
That's about it. And I would buy them again if I was doing another TR6.
Hi Paul, was anything else changed with your headers--(ignition, intake, mufflers)?. What was the difference with the interior noise level? What compression are you running?, I run 10/1 and cant go over 10 btdc without pinging, although my performance is good at 10degrees.
trfourtune
Jedi Knight
Offline
fyi,
there is a dicussion about the gt6/tr6 header on the "totally triumph network" website under performance mods that is very interesting. worth checking out.
rob
there is a dicussion about the gt6/tr6 header on the "totally triumph network" website under performance mods that is very interesting. worth checking out.
rob
Brosky
Great Pumpkin
Offline
Allan, after the headers, I had my distributor rebuilt and installed the Pertronix Igniter and Flame Thrower Coil. I can run with the vacuum retard disconnected, but I can get a bit of a surge at 1,500 to 1,800 RPMs as the advance moves ahead rather quickly at partial throttle and the retard helps slow that down a bit. Jeff at Advanced Distributors recurved mine to Euro pre 1970 specs with no emissions. With my old stock distributor, I have pushed the timing up to 18 with no problems in pinging, which I will do after I return from this weekends run and install my NGK Iridium plugs. I want to play with it when I really have a day to tweak it in and up to now, I've just been too busy.
The only other changes from being a stock 1974 is MagneCor racing wires and K&N air filters. Compression is whatever it was on the 1974's. Exhaust is stock twin pipe to stock muffler. It sounds very good on acceleration. Not offensive at all in the interior either. Also, I have only ever run 93 octane fuel.
The only other changes from being a stock 1974 is MagneCor racing wires and K&N air filters. Compression is whatever it was on the 1974's. Exhaust is stock twin pipe to stock muffler. It sounds very good on acceleration. Not offensive at all in the interior either. Also, I have only ever run 93 octane fuel.