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Tips for getting the paint break line right
- Thread starter chicken
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First of all the "paint break line" is the point at which the side panel two tone colour line is established.
Normally the line was recessed into the bottom of the curvature of the cove. However, because almost none of these panels are very good at matching up, they originally (and you'll have to follow suit) would have to split the difference from panel to panel to achieve an accurate, even paint line. That is much more obvious in catching the eye than the slight panel misalignment. Of course this has to be done with the panels in their final fitting position on the car. Try to stay away from the crest of the cove, as it's easier for your painter to smooth the transition line and clear coat over to achieve a smooth surface transition with no "edge" if he can work within the concave portion.
I have always been able to take my painter's 1/8" wide masking tape to set the line myself, and he's happy to let me.
Normally the line was recessed into the bottom of the curvature of the cove. However, because almost none of these panels are very good at matching up, they originally (and you'll have to follow suit) would have to split the difference from panel to panel to achieve an accurate, even paint line. That is much more obvious in catching the eye than the slight panel misalignment. Of course this has to be done with the panels in their final fitting position on the car. Try to stay away from the crest of the cove, as it's easier for your painter to smooth the transition line and clear coat over to achieve a smooth surface transition with no "edge" if he can work within the concave portion.
I have always been able to take my painter's 1/8" wide masking tape to set the line myself, and he's happy to let me.
AUSMHLY
Yoda
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Rob, could you be more descriptive. Didn't follow the wheel arches?
If you're painting two-tone, this may address your question.
In all two-tone cases, the lower flat panel was painted the second color and the upper body color extended down over the bevel/fold region (about 3/8 inch wide) to meet it.
On the cars with the molded feature line aft of the rear fender well, the two-tone paint line follows the feature line, resulting in a much higher paint line than on the earlier cars. This swage line ends around the midpoint of the rear bumper tip.
If you're painting two-tone, this may address your question.
In all two-tone cases, the lower flat panel was painted the second color and the upper body color extended down over the bevel/fold region (about 3/8 inch wide) to meet it.
On the cars with the molded feature line aft of the rear fender well, the two-tone paint line follows the feature line, resulting in a much higher paint line than on the earlier cars. This swage line ends around the midpoint of the rear bumper tip.
HealeyPassion
Jedi Warrior
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tahoe healey
Yoda
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Some time when you have a few hours, ask Roger what he went through to get it. But in the long run it was well worth it. Probably like child birth.
AUSMHLY
Yoda
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We all have stories.
So, I'm painting the car and the 10 cans of Krylon spray paint are now empty. I go to the hardware store and they are out. Bummer. I go to another store and buy two more cans. Done. Put a fork in it. A little wet sanding and Wa-La, ready to tear up the neighborhood. Cost $80 bucks. Unbelievable story, priceless.
TH is right. The shop could do great work. But it took a lot more work on my part to get them to work on it and stay working on it. Plus, it seems my idea of acceptable quality and theirs was not on the same page. Some things had to be redone. Sometimes, you really have to stay on top of things. There's comfort in knowing I am not the only guy who did a restoration; that experienced all that fun.
Roger....that.
So, I'm painting the car and the 10 cans of Krylon spray paint are now empty. I go to the hardware store and they are out. Bummer. I go to another store and buy two more cans. Done. Put a fork in it. A little wet sanding and Wa-La, ready to tear up the neighborhood. Cost $80 bucks. Unbelievable story, priceless.
TH is right. The shop could do great work. But it took a lot more work on my part to get them to work on it and stay working on it. Plus, it seems my idea of acceptable quality and theirs was not on the same page. Some things had to be redone. Sometimes, you really have to stay on top of things. There's comfort in knowing I am not the only guy who did a restoration; that experienced all that fun.
Roger....that.
GregW
Yoda
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I've learned you always buy more than you need the first time. When I was a wee lad, I worked as a re-modeler. We had to paint this guys pool and the boss bought 5 gallons of white epoxy paint. We got 2/3rds of the way through when the paint ran out. Back to the store, but they were out of that bland of white. We took another 5 gal. of the other brand and finished the pool several hours after dark. The next morning, we found out the two whites looked completely different. So the shallow end was a yellowish white while the deep end had more of a bluish cast to it.AUSMHLY said:
HealeyPassion
Jedi Warrior
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....ah Roger your Krylon looks better than my Krylon....I need those paint can numbers...but a whole $80 seems excessive for a paint job.
Steve
Steve
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Absolutely gorgeous paint, Roger. It truly is an awesome Healey!
tahoe healey
Yoda
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Probably needed extra to huff a few.
OP
chicken
Jedi Trainee
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Roger
Thats just what i was after, i'm actually painting in the same colours as your car.
The painter just had an issue on the arch of the front wing, his line is not as curved as i would like so he is going to re do it next week.
Thankyou for your pointers, i was going to post a pic of mine but can't upload the pic (to big)
Rob
Thats just what i was after, i'm actually painting in the same colours as your car.
The painter just had an issue on the arch of the front wing, his line is not as curved as i would like so he is going to re do it next week.
Thankyou for your pointers, i was going to post a pic of mine but can't upload the pic (to big)
Rob
Chris_Masucci
Senior Member
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My apologies for dredging up an old post.
I am just about (a month or two) to go into paint with my '66 BJ8 and I am going with the same color combo as you Roger. Would you be willing to provide me with the brand of paint you used and color numbers? I'm assuming you didn't just walk into the local paint shop and ask for BU2. I have Piknovics Color Guide but whatever you have is exactly what I'm looking for.
Also, would you be so kind as to post some pictures of the door jambs, rockers, shut pillar and door mount pillar, maybe even during the restoration right after paint? I am trying to figure out where the white paint stops and the blue begins in the door opening, and I think it would be very helpful to have all of those pictures in one post.
Cheers,
Chris
BJ8
I am just about (a month or two) to go into paint with my '66 BJ8 and I am going with the same color combo as you Roger. Would you be willing to provide me with the brand of paint you used and color numbers? I'm assuming you didn't just walk into the local paint shop and ask for BU2. I have Piknovics Color Guide but whatever you have is exactly what I'm looking for.
Also, would you be so kind as to post some pictures of the door jambs, rockers, shut pillar and door mount pillar, maybe even during the restoration right after paint? I am trying to figure out where the white paint stops and the blue begins in the door opening, and I think it would be very helpful to have all of those pictures in one post.
Cheers,
Chris
BJ8
AUSMHLY
Yoda
Offline
Chris_Masucci said:
Hi Chris,
Sorry it's taken me this long to reply.
I ordered the paint from:
R&R Paint Suppy Inc.
5723 Atlantic Ave.
Long Beach, CA 90805
562.428.3648
RR2797 ICE BLU
8401KH OLD ENG.
Here's some photos of my door jam area.
I can not say for sure if the OEW rapped around the edges like I did it vs how the originals were....disclaimer
Others may chime in about how much paint rapped around.
Welcome to the forum and good luck with your restoration.
Cheers,
Roger
Chris_Masucci
Senior Member
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Thanks Roger, I had forgotten about them. If I remember correctly Dick Maine gave me his tow bar some years back and I had promised myself to by my paint from him.
Another question, how far under the aluminum shut finishers does the white go or is it as simple as far enough that the blue doesn't show? The rocker area is my concern.
Thanks again!
Another question, how far under the aluminum shut finishers does the white go or is it as simple as far enough that the blue doesn't show? The rocker area is my concern.
Thanks again!
AUSMHLY
Yoda
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Chris,
I can't confirm how it was painted at the factory; I had them paint far enough back so that when I installed the aluminum, it would not show where the OEW stopped.
Note in my photos that the aluminum and the vinyl finishing bead on the rear wing does not go to the edge of the body. It needs to be in enough for the edge of the door to clear. So make sure you paint far enough in.
To keep the rocker panel from chipping when getting in and out of the car, and from getting rock chipped while driving, I used the same product that I installed on the front of my car. Clear bra film by 3M.
Cheers,
Roger
I can't confirm how it was painted at the factory; I had them paint far enough back so that when I installed the aluminum, it would not show where the OEW stopped.
Note in my photos that the aluminum and the vinyl finishing bead on the rear wing does not go to the edge of the body. It needs to be in enough for the edge of the door to clear. So make sure you paint far enough in.
To keep the rocker panel from chipping when getting in and out of the car, and from getting rock chipped while driving, I used the same product that I installed on the front of my car. Clear bra film by 3M.
Cheers,
Roger
Chris_Masucci
Senior Member
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Thanks again Roger. I really appreciate it.