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As I am having an impossibly hard time starting my BJ7 (so much so that I run down the battery each time I attempt it) and have been told that it quite possibly be due to incorrect timing I wish to retard the timing from approx. 15 degrees BTDC to 6 degrees in stages with the engine off to see if that makes a difference in getting it started. Which direction should the distributer be turned to move the timing from 15 degrees toward 6 degrees?
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timing
- Thread starter Roberte
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Bob_Spidell
Yoda
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Clockwise advances, counter- (anti-) clockwise retards. If you forget, look at the rotor--the 'stock' ones have an arrow indicating direction of rotation; turning the distributor in the opposite direction advances.
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If your car was too advanced, it would pink when you accelerate from low speeds in high gears and if anything it might start easier.
As has been said, timing it either 6 degrees static of 12 at 650 rpm.
if you retarded the ignition timing so that it was at TDC or earlier, the car may well be difficult to start and when it does, it would appear weak by spitting through the carbs.
if you check the manual, it will tell you to turn the engine until the timing mark on the front pulley lines up with the pointer and set the manual adjustment on the distributor to fully retarded. Time number 1 so that it's just opening at TDC and then advance the manual adjustment by three division and try the car to see if it pinks.
However IMO, unless the timing is very retarded and it doesn't sound like it is, I don't think it will affect starting.
As has been said, timing it either 6 degrees static of 12 at 650 rpm.
if you retarded the ignition timing so that it was at TDC or earlier, the car may well be difficult to start and when it does, it would appear weak by spitting through the carbs.
if you check the manual, it will tell you to turn the engine until the timing mark on the front pulley lines up with the pointer and set the manual adjustment on the distributor to fully retarded. Time number 1 so that it's just opening at TDC and then advance the manual adjustment by three division and try the car to see if it pinks.
However IMO, unless the timing is very retarded and it doesn't sound like it is, I don't think it will affect starting.
5
57_BN4
Guest
Guest
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yes, timing is always "degrees advance" therefore going towards TCD is retarding.
If you imagine an arrow going into the vacuum advance cannister where the pipe attaches, that arrow is pointing in the retard direction for turning the dissy to adjust timing.
If you imagine an arrow going into the vacuum advance cannister where the pipe attaches, that arrow is pointing in the retard direction for turning the dissy to adjust timing.
Randy Forbes
Yoda
Offline
Is the point gap opened up enough? Some rub-blocks wear down very rapidly, and though the car will run okay at 600+ RPM, getting it to start can be hard, like what you're experiencing.
Fifteen (15) degrees static advance does seem excessive.
Fifteen (15) degrees static advance does seem excessive.
bob hughes
Luke Skywalker
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Roberte
You have to rule out things systematically
Does the engine start at all? If it does then fuel should not be a problem. Are you flooding the engine - great big smell of fuel - wet plugs etc. If you are, then again fuel should not be the problem.
If you are not then with a BJ7 and the HS6 carbs, there are external fuel lines from the float chamber to the jets, they are fitted into the base of the float chambers with compression fittings rubber seals and olives, the rubber seals can collapse blocking the fuel lines to the jets
I would go through the whole lot of checks as outlined in the workshop manual - section B3. This will clear the ignition side of things.
Bob
You have to rule out things systematically
Does the engine start at all? If it does then fuel should not be a problem. Are you flooding the engine - great big smell of fuel - wet plugs etc. If you are, then again fuel should not be the problem.
If you are not then with a BJ7 and the HS6 carbs, there are external fuel lines from the float chamber to the jets, they are fitted into the base of the float chambers with compression fittings rubber seals and olives, the rubber seals can collapse blocking the fuel lines to the jets
I would go through the whole lot of checks as outlined in the workshop manual - section B3. This will clear the ignition side of things.
Bob