Tilton Clutch Master Cylinder

[SherpaPilot]

Greetings All,

I am considering replacing my failed Girling master clutch cylinder with a 7/8 Tilton. My racing experience with an EP MGB was pretty good using the Tilton products and I was considering installing one in my TR6. The Girling unit has failed at least twice and during the last failure leaked hydraulic fluid under the driver's floor mat (a situation I would like to avoid in the future). Does anyone have any experience in using Tilton products in their Triumph cars? What size did you use and what modifications were necessary? Thanks guys.
Don
Austin, TX

 

[PeterK]

I used a Wilwood that is a Girling clone with success but not a Tilton, if that helps. Plug n Play from Pegasus Racing

 

[Alan_Myers]

Hi,

I've not used Tilton SCs specifically, but have used the Wilwood that Peter mentions, which is nearly an exact match to the Girling. All three seem to be really good quality and are probably pretty much interchangeable. I'd certainly consider Tilton (In fact, I'mm thinking of trying a Tilton 7.5" clutch in my TR4, along with their annular hydraulic release.)

Actually, there's nothing at all wrong with the Girling MCs and SCs, which are also available in a variety of sizes. I think rebuild and other service parts for Girling might be a bit more widely available for these. At least in the U.S., Wilwood seem to be a little less expensive than Girling. I haven't compared the price of Tilton with either.

You're probably wise to think about increasing the size of the clutch MC a bit.

However, I think 7/8" (.875") is too much (unless you are considering changing the SC size to match).

Your TR6 should have originally used .70" Girling. It can be identified by two parallel rings cast around the body of the MC. Earlier cars that used the same diaphragm clutch as TR6 (but with more reliability) were fitted with a .75" Girling MC that can be identified by a single ring cast around the body. The larger MC gave a slightly heavier clutch pedal, but provides more stroke at the SC pushrod.

Supposedly Triumph went to the .70" to make the pedal a little easier (not that it was bad with the .75"), but this now gave just barely enough stroke at the SC even when all clutch-related parts are brand new and in "ideal" condition. So, there's little room for any slight increase in slop in the non-adjustable linkage, some of which is inevitable with time, use and wear. Some folks think this is one of several key reasons for the clutch reliability issues in the later cars.

So, yes, I'd suggest if changing the MC anyway, this is a good opportunity to change to retrofit a .75" instead of .70", but .875" might be too much and could overextend the throwout bearing, worst case scenario.

The slightly larger bore will make the pedal just a little firmer, but should give more room for adjustment and forgiveness at the SC pushrod stroke.

Speaking of which, changing to an adjustable SC pushrod is another good idea, if you haven't already done so, especially to take advantage of the increased stroke provided by the slightly larger MC bore. Adjustment only needs to be done annually or every 12K mi., same as was called for on the earlier cars. There are kits with adjustable pushrods sold on eBay and elsewhere. Maybe Goodparts or some of the other vendors have them. It's not difficult to fabricate one, if necessary.

/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cheers.gif

 

[SherpaPilot]

Peter and Alan,

Thanks for your responses. Your advice sounds very logical. I think I will trash the Tilton idea and move ahead with with the .75 unit. I never knew about the rings around the cylinder but that information could be helpful when trying to identify a mc in the future. Thanks again guys.

Don