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So I will be installing a new RATCO rear cross member on my frame. RATCO will send some new frame-reinforcement plates to be welded onto the frame before the cross member is welded on. My frame is solid (as solid as a TR6 frame is) and non-rusted. That said, have you ever looked at a TR6 frame. There ain't much to it. Very thin metal, at best. My concern when welding these plate and the cross member in, is the heat generated by the welding process. Not being a welder (I own a really nice Millermatic MIG welder, but that doesn't make me a welder!), I have been told that TIG generates less heat and lessens the possibilities of frame distortion. I will have the frame well supported when the welder (the real welder) shows up, to reduce the possibilities of the frame sagging. So, what do ya'll say, TIG or MIG. Aweman, are you out there??
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TIG or MIG
- Thread starter TR6BILL
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dklawson
Yoda
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I don't know that I'd say a TIG introduces less heat. It's less heat than gas welding and if you're not trying to get really deep penetration I guess by controlling the speed (and/or power) you'd put less heat into the frame. However, I don't think doing this job with a MIG would be unreasonable.
If you're worried about the MIG putting too much heat into the frame, do short welds about 1" long and allow each short weld to cool before doing the next weld. Stagger the weld locations so you don't warp the parts, and slowly stitch the welds together to produce a continuous bead.
If you're worried about the MIG putting too much heat into the frame, do short welds about 1" long and allow each short weld to cool before doing the next weld. Stagger the weld locations so you don't warp the parts, and slowly stitch the welds together to produce a continuous bead.
martx-5
Yoda
Offline
I'm sorry I can't offer any advice on the welding, but when I saw Tony from RATCO last saturday, he asked me if there was any news on the cross member installation. He knows I'm a BCF junkie and that I would be keeping track. I told him no news yet, but did tell him what you were doing, and that you were having a welder come in when everything was ready. I mentioned that I would keep an eye out, as I was sure that you would be updating us on your progress. Tony doesn't just sell stuff, he's genuinely interested in how things work out with his products.
TR6oldtimer
Darth Vader
Offline
Bill, you are paying a professional welder to do the work. So what is the worry? Shoot, the frame when originally assembled used old fashioned stick arc welding, which would work just fine now.
Let the guy do his job, or I may come down and tell you how to fix my teeth.
Let the guy do his job, or I may come down and tell you how to fix my teeth.
Scott_Hower
Luke Skywalker
Offline
MIG is fine. Don't sweat it; your frame is plenty thick.
AweMan
Jedi Knight
Offline
Actually T.I.G. induces more heat but that heat is also more controllable. Having said that welding out of position in an awkward position and place can be quite challenging using the T.I.G. process.
M.I.G. would be my preference if I were to do the job for you. One thing you don`t want to do is weld these gussets {stiffener} in solid. Eg. all the way around. Were it me, I would leave about one inch in the center of each plate open {no weld} be sure to wrap both ends down or up the gusset about an inch or more.
here is an example
If your welder friend Knows about stress risers and welding on vehicle frames of any type he will know what to do.
M.I.G. would be my preference if I were to do the job for you. One thing you don`t want to do is weld these gussets {stiffener} in solid. Eg. all the way around. Were it me, I would leave about one inch in the center of each plate open {no weld} be sure to wrap both ends down or up the gusset about an inch or more.
here is an example
If your welder friend Knows about stress risers and welding on vehicle frames of any type he will know what to do.
tomshobby
Yoda
Offline
Paul, Bill isn't sleepy.....He is Doc!!
I agree that MIG is fine. Just be sure that the guy doing the welding knows what he is doing. I have seen a lot of guys welding with a MIG and only penetrate one part and just lay the bead on the second part. The bead would look great but it would not hold.
I agree that MIG is fine. Just be sure that the guy doing the welding knows what he is doing. I have seen a lot of guys welding with a MIG and only penetrate one part and just lay the bead on the second part. The bead would look great but it would not hold.
AweMan
Jedi Knight
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Tom Is absolutely right. I have seen inexperienced people try to weld with a M.I.G. and the result can very easily be exactly what he states, Not penetrating both pieces! Especially where someone tries to apply their welds over rust, grease, dirt, and or mill scale.. One way to tell without expensive equipment is the Appearance of the H.E.Z. { Heat Effected Zone } eg. the blue or discolored area around the weld.
This discolored area should be uniform on all sides, If it isn`t you can bet the penetration isn`t either!
I know I have said this time and time again but ..... bare metal is essential when striving for good welds. That means even removing the "Mill Scale". The weld area should be bright and shiny before welding.
This discolored area should be uniform on all sides, If it isn`t you can bet the penetration isn`t either!
I know I have said this time and time again but ..... bare metal is essential when striving for good welds. That means even removing the "Mill Scale". The weld area should be bright and shiny before welding.