Tie Rod Question

[jerrybny]

Does anyone know how hard it is to replace the tie rod ends on a 73 TR6? Are any special tools required. Thanks

 

[LastDeadLast]

I used a tie rod end separator that I bought at autozone. One side came off just fine, however I had a lot of trouble with the drivers side. I ended up cutting through a large thick washer so it would fit around the bolt (so the separator would have more surface area to force against)(the washer looked like a "C" when I was done cutting). It popped off pretty easily, with the gentle help of a two pound sledge.

Let me know if you have any questions..
-Shannon

 

[martx-5]

I've always had better luck by just whacking the part that encircles where the tapered part of the joint fits in. Take off the nut, and two or three blows with a heavy hammer will knock it loose. There are some people that think this is abusive, but I've been doing it this way for a gazillion years, and have never encountered a problem or have failed to seperate a joint. This method works for all tapered fittings.

 

[Paul Johnson]

Mart is right. I use two hammers though, and one good, simultaneous blow on opposite sides of the tapered part will almost always pop it loose - first try.

 

[Cain]

I agree with Mart and Paul. I did this for the first time about two weeks ago. I tried to separate one side for three days ruining the threads in the process and never got them separated. Then someone told me about the two hammer method - three wacks and it was done.

My TR6 is a '71 and I'm almost positive the tie rod ends hadn't been taking off in many years. Once I got them separated from the vertical arm, I had to use a pipe wrench to unscrew the old tie rod ends from the steering rack.

 

[Alan_Myers]

Hi Jerry, There is a type of seperator that works particularly well and should work on your upper ball joint, too. It's sort of like a clamshell, all one piece with a slot in one end and a large bolt in the other. Just slip it over the joint, tighten the bolt and it will pop right off. I recommend leaving the nut partly on to help keep the tool centered and keep from damaging the threads. Whacking with a hammer is optional. A tap is about all it ever takes. An alternative with a stubborn tie rod is to tighten the tool up good, go get a beer out of the fridge and likely the joint will pop before you've finished the beer.

I used it this week on a TR4, which is virtually identical to your car in these areas, and had both the tie rod and the ball joint free in just a few minutes and I know these had not been touched in at least 16 years, probably a lot longer.

I've got a drawer full of other pullers and seperators, including a few "pickle forks". But, any time it will fit, this is the tool I use. Problem is, I forget where I got it. I think it was one of the big three TR parts suppliers here in the U.S.: Victoria British, Roadster Factory or Moss Motors. So, I probably paid half again what it can be bought for elsewhere if you can find it.