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Tie Rod Alignment

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Ray Smith

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Just put two new tie rod ends on the BJ7.I screwed both ball joints in the same amount. When I placed the rod back in the car, one wheel was rotated out about 1" more than the other. This occured after I rotated the rod into the ball joints as far as they would go. If I screw in one of the ball joints more than the other, How can I insure that the wheels are orientated straight ahead? I realize that the toe in is between 1/4 and 1/2 inch.

Help!

Ray
 
Question Ray? were any of the steering arms removed from the car.? Keoke
 
Keoke,

I renewed the oil seals on both the steer arm and the idler arm, so both were removed. I neglected to note their position on the shaft prior to removing.

Ray
 
This might be your problem! The placement of the steering arms is critical in keeping everything in check. You may have to work with it a little at a time until you get it right. A lot of taking off, putting back on, etc. I recommend that you find a patient friend who likes cold beer!
Good luck.
 
Yep Ray, Like BH said this just might be the problem.Both of the arms at the offset must point out toward the wheels. Locating the center position for the steering arm on the steering box can be achieved by counting the number of turns of the steering wheel lock-to-lock and dividing them by 2.If the track rod is correct the idler arm will just set up. Final adjustment should have the toe in set at a shop. When you get it all sorted out again don't forget to put alignment marks on the shaft ends and matching ones on the arms using a center punch.FWIW---Keoke
 
BH thanks for the input.

Keoke,

What do you mean "If the track rod is correct the idler arm will just set up?"

Can the idler arm be removed from the steering gear box without removing it from the car?

Ray
 
Ray, I mean if the ends have been correctly spaced then--. Yes the steering box arm can be removed with the box installed in the car.---Keoke
 
At the expense of sounding a little thick, I still don't understand how I can insure that both wheels are perfectly straight. Is there some point that I can measure from that will give me this information.

Ray
 
Ray, I would have the alignment done at a shop,it can be done at home but it is a bit of a hassel.---Keoke
 
[ QUOTE ]
...I still don't understand how I can insure that both wheels are perfectly straight. Is there some point that I can measure from that will give me this information.

[/ QUOTE ]

There is and you can. You may want to get a professional alignment but there is no reason not to try to get them close at home first.

With the car in the garage I select a point on the fat part of the tire -- 3:00 on the drivers side, 9:00 on passengers side. Using a spirit level vertically (plumb) I mark a point on the floor directly below the point on the tire (use masking tape n the floor for easy to remove marks -- label the tape 'R' for this measurement).

Then push the car backwards one half turn of the tires so that point on the fat part is now forward (9:00 d/s, 3:00 p/s) and make 2 more points on the floor (label the tape 'F' for this measurement).

Measure the distance between the points for the front and the points for the rear. A 6' folding carpenters rule works well but you can also use 2 yardsticks. Note that the 'front' points will be farther back than the 'rear' points. Taking the difference will give you the toe-in/toe-out at that point on the tire. A little thinking may now be required to slightly adjust this to toe-in at the tire tread. A lot of thinking will be required if your spec is in degrees rather than inches.

Time consuming the first time you do it but take lots of notes -- especially how much you have to turn a tierod to change toe-in by 1/16" and eventually it will become quick and easy.

Oh, be sure tire pressure is equal and correct and roll the car into position, do not lower it from a jack and start this process.
 
You won't be able to measure accurately enough unless you have the correct tool.

In order to get to a garage to have it done, you'll need to get it somewhere near correct.(Unless you trailer it there)

You need measure between the wheel rims at the front (of the front wheels) and the rear (of the front wheels). If the measurements are the same, than you have no toe in/out.

The problem is getting in there - the chassis gets in the way, so you can't just put a tape measure across.
You might be able to measure outwards to the garage wall either side, or use something shaped like 2 hockey sticks, which will go under the chassis but still be able to touch the wheels, or if the front and rear track are the same, and you can get a straight line through, tie a piece of string so that it touches the rear tyre on the wall at its front and back, then continue forward; it should touch the front tyre wall front and back as well. Do this both sides. When there's no gap between the string and the 4 contact points either side, there's no toe in/out.
All this is just for a rough setting, so that it doesn't screech or wobble its way to the garage!
Just think yourself lucky you don't have a "real" (Warwick)Healey - the castor angle is adjustable as well!
 
High Ray,
The considerations for measuring toe in are that it be easy to measure, & be accurate with respect to tire dimensional variations & or wheel runout.

As you have seen, there are many ways to accomplish this. The most accurate & easiest method that I have found is to:

1- Jack the wheel up enough to rotate the tire.
2- Using an ice pick supported on a wood block, rotate the tire & scribe a line around the tire circumference. Near the outer edge of the tread face, maybe one inch in, is easiest. This will put a true reference line on the tire which is independent of any tire or wheel run out. It removes the possibility of the variations affecting the setting. The line will be true to the actual tire axis.
3- Do the same on the other tire.
Lower the car & roll it forward or backward to remove any suspension bind & let the tires assume there normal loaded positions.
4- Measure between the scribed lines front & back. Small variations in measuring height will have negligable effect so measure the back at a height that is convenient but as close to the vertical center as possible.
5- The difference in the two measurements is the toe in or out. Adjust the cross rod length to give about 1/16" toe in. Roll the tires a bit after changing the setting to normalize the tires to the new setting.
D
 
Once again thanks for such outstanding feedback on my question. You guys are great! I would certainly be "up the creek" without this expert advise.

Ray
 
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