jlaird
Great Pumpkin

Offline
Haveing had a few hours, like days to think on this, and to have been shown the way toward a solution in my case, I have a few thoughts.
The piston in the slave cylinder of course actualy moves the clutch fork and throwout bearing against the pressure plate which releases the clutch. OK that out of the way here goes.
A piston in the slave cylinder is pushed toward the rear of the car when the pedal is depresed. How much you say and what can be adjusted.
The pedal of course can be adjusted at the MC and must be so that the MC gets a full bite of fluid to push to the slave. Note that if you make more threads show on the clutch/MC pushrod you get not only a higher pedal but also a longer throw. Clutch pedal should of course be the same height as the brake or preaty close anyway.
Now, assuming that is adjusted properly it is time to adjust the slave cylinder. What you say there is no adjustment there. Of course there is and it is the length of the small rod that goes from the back of the cylinder piston to the clutch fork. They come in two sizes, the 1275 about a quarter inch longer than the other. What does this mean?
Ok lets go to how the slave cylinder is built. There is a cirlclamp that keeps the piston from comming out the back so the piston can travel from the front of the cylinder to the cirlclamp inside and in my opinion should never touch either, close but no touchee.
So when the push rod is inserted it should push the piston all the way to the front, almost, just as it fits into the clutch fork clevis hole.
Oh, but how long a rod does it take you say? There are only two provided as stock sizes.
New manufactured clutches work fine but their specs are not quite the same as the orginals, in my set I noted that the throwout bearing casting was thiner than the orginal, much thiner, ahhhhh longer rod so it can push the fork in far enough to release it. Yep. some cases stock rods do not seem to be long enough even with a 1275 rod in a 948 application.
My take on all this, is weld a half inch on a rod. Push it in the slave till the piston is all the way in and take the slack out of the fork and measure the difference between the fork clevis hole and the rod clevis hole. Grind that much off of the end of the rod and just a touch more maybe 1/32 inch and you chould be good to go.
I would suspect, it is my opinion, that many trannys are trashed ie grind a bit going into gears because the clutch is not really disengageing enough to really stop the thing from spinning under pressure.
If I got this wrong someone please correct me, in addition an adjustable slave push rod would be a wonderful item?
The piston in the slave cylinder of course actualy moves the clutch fork and throwout bearing against the pressure plate which releases the clutch. OK that out of the way here goes.
A piston in the slave cylinder is pushed toward the rear of the car when the pedal is depresed. How much you say and what can be adjusted.
The pedal of course can be adjusted at the MC and must be so that the MC gets a full bite of fluid to push to the slave. Note that if you make more threads show on the clutch/MC pushrod you get not only a higher pedal but also a longer throw. Clutch pedal should of course be the same height as the brake or preaty close anyway.
Now, assuming that is adjusted properly it is time to adjust the slave cylinder. What you say there is no adjustment there. Of course there is and it is the length of the small rod that goes from the back of the cylinder piston to the clutch fork. They come in two sizes, the 1275 about a quarter inch longer than the other. What does this mean?
Ok lets go to how the slave cylinder is built. There is a cirlclamp that keeps the piston from comming out the back so the piston can travel from the front of the cylinder to the cirlclamp inside and in my opinion should never touch either, close but no touchee.
So when the push rod is inserted it should push the piston all the way to the front, almost, just as it fits into the clutch fork clevis hole.
Oh, but how long a rod does it take you say? There are only two provided as stock sizes.
New manufactured clutches work fine but their specs are not quite the same as the orginals, in my set I noted that the throwout bearing casting was thiner than the orginal, much thiner, ahhhhh longer rod so it can push the fork in far enough to release it. Yep. some cases stock rods do not seem to be long enough even with a 1275 rod in a 948 application.
My take on all this, is weld a half inch on a rod. Push it in the slave till the piston is all the way in and take the slack out of the fork and measure the difference between the fork clevis hole and the rod clevis hole. Grind that much off of the end of the rod and just a touch more maybe 1/32 inch and you chould be good to go.
I would suspect, it is my opinion, that many trannys are trashed ie grind a bit going into gears because the clutch is not really disengageing enough to really stop the thing from spinning under pressure.
If I got this wrong someone please correct me, in addition an adjustable slave push rod would be a wonderful item?