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TR2/3/3A Thoughts on Brake Pads

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TAS525

TAS525

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My only real pre-season project was to re-pack the front wheel bearings. Simple right? šŸ™„ Of course this involved new felt seals (soaked in oil). I mustā€™ve told myself a hundred times, ā€œWhatever you do, DO NOT SPIN THE ROTOR until all of the excess oil is out of the felt!ā€

Once I replaced the calipers and pads, however, I could not fight the urge to spin the rotor and consequently soaked one of the brake pads in 5w30. I wanted to be sure the disc was centered, okay?!

Anyway, I assume the best thing to do is replace the old brake pad and wanted some opinions on a suitable part. I only put around 500 miles/year on the vehicle, so would the stock pad suffice? I donā€™t want to drop $150/set if I donā€™t need to.

Many thanks everyone,
TAS
 
spray some Brake Clean on it that should work or in my hummble it will be fine with a wipe the best you can and drive it.

steve
 
The conventional wisdom is that any oil or grease fouling of the brake linings or pads necessitates replacement. Once or twice, though, when a little grease found its way out of a bearing and onto a pad, I just cleaned it with a good solvent (acetone or brake cleaner) and the pad was fine. I wouldn't do that with a really serious contamination, but for minor things, I think it is a reasonable thing to do.
 
+1...clean it off and run it. The oil will burn out with the first hard brake application. Now, if the pads soaked for considerable time in oil, then replace them.
 
Outstanding gents! Yes, only minor contamination, but those pads REALLY soak up oil fast. Iā€™ll blast ā€˜em with brake cleaner and see how it goes from there. Thanks for the advice.
 
I agree about mild contamination being cleaned off but If you do decide to replace get a stock set from one of your reputable suppliers ( Iā€™m in uk)

big money pads tend to be for competition and you wonā€™t generate the heat for them to be effective from what you say about your use.

i have had great results from old stock ferrodo ( probably because they are asbestos!!!!!!!!) but as I do my own work Iā€™m careful.
 
One thing I learned the hard way is the cheap, organic pads keep the rotors preserved almost forever. I have a Range Rover that I was using the expensive metalic, ceramic, and semi-metalic pads. We drive that car hard and have put 6 brake jobs on it. The high-dollar pads chew up the rotors, so not only did we have to replace pads, also had to change out rotors every brake job.

Metalic and semi-metalic pads have their place...in performance or heavy duty applications. But for the way I drive, I've gone back to the cheapest organics I can find. Strangely they even last longer! I think that is because the metalics start scoring the rotors , which then eats the pads faster.
 
Thank yā€™all for the great advice. Went the cheap route and soaked the pads in brake cleaner for a day or so. Incredible how such a small amount of oil can contaminate those things! The car pulled hard to the right at first, but - like you said - eventually evened out following several brake applications. Needless to say, I was much more diligent with removing excess oil from the right seal prior to installing.
 
Crap can the stock brakes, install Tr4 rotors and a set of Wilwoods........ Freakin trust me!
the best place for your old brakes is under the bench where they can do no harm. Just the weight differential
causes better handling But the braking is wonderful and you now have endless brake pads to pick from.
 
I put ceramic pads on my TR4A and have just started driving it after restoration. It seems to have a softer pedal (or should I say the pedal goes further down than I like) and I just had my rotors turned not replaced. I have bled it again with little improvement. Is this because of using ceramic pads? Bruce
 
I do not think it is because of the ceramic pads. I would try tightening up the real brakes. IMHO all the hydraulics are connected and the soft pedal on Triumphs is that little bit of adjustment on the rear brakes that creates play and a soft pedal.

If you tighten up the rear brakes so there is some drag on rear shoes, the whole system will be firmer. You might need a longer wrench for the leverage to adjust the rear brakes because the cam on the adjuster has that high and then low lob. Make sure you are not stuck on the high lob when you adjust them because the shoes will be too tight.

How firm is your emergency brake now?
 
The emergency brake is firm. I modified it with the redrilled pivot hole to increase leverage as specified on a post either here or on another forum. It does not have much travel but seems to hold the brakes firm. I will tighten the rear adjusters more if I can and see what that does. Thanks for the help. Bruce
 
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