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thoughts on aluminum head

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V8Blazer

V8Blazer

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Well I will start by saying hello, as this is my first post on this forum. Been looking for a place to call home for a while. My question is this... I recently bought my latest project car, only to find out that it had the typical cracked head. I've taken 3 heads now to the machine shop to find that they all were cracked. I am looking at buying the non crossflow aluminum head, and was wondering if anyone had any experience with this choice. Eventually to install a cam, maybe at the same time, since I'm already there. What are your thoughts?
 
I woudl buy a regular iron head and build it up(get it ported, bigger valves, stipper spings, etc..). A cam would work alot better with a ported head and a nice exhaust system, I would recomend an ANSA system or a custom job. Thats jsut what I would do. If you need any help finding out where to get any of that out, I'll know.
 
With the down draught that you have the ported head and some valve work with a cam woudl be a very nice setup. I loked at your website and you might want to look into a book called how to powertune your mgb. (I think thats it)
 
Well, here's the advantages of the aluminum head... it's a heckuva lot lighter, it MAY dissipate heat better and be less likely to crack (although that's highly debatable) and, most important of all, it's new, and not cracked.
Downsides? They ain't cheap, and they're not going to perform a bit better than an iron head.
Either way you go, Adam's right... an MG head ported by someone who knows what they're doing is well worth the effort. I wish I could remember a name, but I can't. If it were me, I'd apply the aluminum head money to a ported stock head.
Adam's also right, to REALLY take advantage of a cam, head work makes a big difference. However, since the MG isn't OHC, you're not really "there" when you pull the head. It's your call.
I gotta disagree with adam on the Ansa, though. It's a waste of money. Get a custom job built by a good muffler shop, or spring for the Peco.
 
Thanks for the input. The difficult call at this point is that I'm pretty tired of searching for heads. When buying a new one, the cast iron heads are roughly the same price as the aluminum ones... and I could still get that one ported too I suppose. With the cam, and a fat exhaust setup, it should prove to be pretty fun. Any other advice?
 
Electronic ignition. Besides being more reliable, it's typically good for a few extra horses on the dyno (as much as ANY of the header/exhaust systems out there). Especially if your smart and remember that the EI means you can open up the spark plug for a fatter spark.
 
Visit Tony's site: https://www.theautoist.com/ and you can get a good head from him that has been magnifluxed to check for cracks so you know it's good. I've heard bad things form the peco system but I've heard the header is pretty good. Use a 2inch exhaust pipe but nothing bigger or it will start robbing you of power.
 
A cam working with a stock head will only get you a few measly hp in the upper rpm range.
 
Porting the cylinder head is the first place to start when rebuilding the engine for a significance increase in horsepower. It is very crucial that you find a shop that knows MGB cylinder heads. Some shops to think about are Mike & Sean Brown at Seven Shop British (Oregon), Tom Bedenbaugh at Import and Sports (Memphis,TN). These shops will be able to get the most out of your cylinder head. With standard valves an increase at the flywheel will be 20 hp. Using Rim-Flo valves will get you up to 30 hp.

I'd recommend a new camshaft and specifically the Crane Cams 342-0010. An almost "Fast Road" cam it is made from a block of steel, refered to as a Billet cam. This is how the original cams for our engines were made and will last 100,000 miles. Regrind cams, which most of the aftermarket companies sell can last a few minutes to 50-75,000 miles. Make sure to get their Chilled iron lifters to go with the cam or it will wear out the stock lifters.

Exhaust systems will only give you 5 hp max so you can choose which one soots your taste (Loudness). Peco and ANSA systems are great.

K&N filters do work and you will see an increase of 3-5 hp at the wheels when using them. If you end up running SUs they will need a richer needle (AAA).

I'd highly recommend an electronic ignition system from Pertronix. They can be bought on the net for as low as $60.

Other parts that you might want to look into but are not neccesary are a Double Row timing chain and an adjustable cam sprocket.

The last option would be OVERDRIVE if you don't already have one. They really let the car cruise easier on the interstate.
 
Hi There,
Since the others that know what they're talking about addressed your questions, I will sneak in with a welcome to the forum. As you already know this is the best spot on the net for those with our shared affliction. Again Welcome and Good Luck.
 
I appreciate your ideas. Really makes it a tough call for me now; there is a lot to think about. I am right at the beginning of this project as far as the motor is concerned, and as I've learned with project cars in the past, the decisions and purchases I make now will dictate a lot in the future. I have a lot to research now. Thanks guys.
 
Ive done the engine swap thing before (425hp V8 S10 Blazer) and I was kinda wanting to do something somewhat original. And doing a 4 cylinder is something new and exciting, even if it wont run low 12's at the drags.
 
On the subject of exhausts, I am right now installing the full peco system(header and exhaust)and a weber downdraft. My opinion on the peco is the quality looks good, its red, but I will have to let you know how it sounds tomorrow. Will update
 
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