Third *[3rd] Brake Light

[RAC68]

Hi All,

In my attempt to have my '64 BJ8 Phase 1 better noticed by other drivers, day or night, I recently rebuilt my original Flasher Relay with (2) 8-terminal relays fitted within the original box, replaced my original Lucas flasher with an electronic unit, and installed high output 1157 socket-compatible LEDs in in tail and front lights to satisfy running/brake/signaling functions. Retaining the quite small lighting of all but the Phase 2 BJ8s, and wanting to improve signaling visibility, I had previously installed 1156 socket-compatible LEDs within my reflectors and, in this configuration, further enforces directional or brake signaling (which ever is appropriate for the side.

Although the high output LEDs did brighten my rear day or night illumination, over the years drivers have come to expect seeing much brighter and higher lighting. Recently we had a discussion on 3rd Brake Lights and it became clear to me that this was something I needed to address. Although a few high-positioned 3rd Brake Lights were presented that I really liked, my solution would need to be positioned with my luggage rack (purchased the day after I picked up my new Healey from the dealer) in place. The following presents what I came up with, keeping in mind that this 3rd Brake light is meant to compliment all other rear running/signaling. The following presents what will be presented by each set of lights:
`. Original rear light: Running and Directional or Brake Signaling.
2. Reflector lights: Directional or Brake Signaling.
3. 3rd Brake light: Running and Brake Signaling.

Installation of the 3rd Brake Light was made on the lower side of the luggage rack rear cross member to assure clear high visibility. Wiring was hidden by passing it through the tube and through the racks foot mount into the boot. The running light is powered from the fuse-protected license plate lamp with Brake light power from a separate brake peddle switch that operates in parallel with the original pressure switch. Last, the 3rd brake light can be easily unplugged and removed with the extraction of (2) screws and a plug inserted on the underside of the rack bar to eliminate the wiring hole. Cost of the light was $12 and a small mounting housing created.

Just my thoughts,
Ray(64BJ8P1)

 

[tahoe healey]

Good job, Ray. Is it brake only or sequential directional signal as well?

 

[RAC68]

Hi Tahoe,

Thank you. It is running and brake light only as too many lights has a potential of causing confusion rather than presenting clarity. The side lights (main and reflector lights), as original, if the brakes and directionals are applied at the same time, one side will indicate the turn direction while the opposite side showing the brake lights. If the lights are also on, the original running lights and the 3rd brake light will display the running lights but the reflector will not. This was chosen to happen to provide a greater more direct indication of the signal and not have them washed away by the display of too many lights.

Thanks again,
Ray(64BJ8P1)

 

[John Turney]

Hi All,

... replaced my original Lucas flasher with an electronic unit, and installed high output 1157 socket-compatible LEDs in in tail and front lights to satisfy running/brake/signaling functions. ...

Hi Ray,

I'm not ready to add a 3rd brake light yet, but I'm curious what 1157 bulbs did you use? I have added 1156 LEDs to the reflectors, but I haven't found LEDs that I like for the original rear lamps.

Thanks,
John

 

[RAC68]

Hi John,

I totally understand as you don't know how they will perform until you have purchased them and installed them in the socket and circuit. I found these on eBay and like their look so took a chance.

As you can see, they have LED SMDs on the top as well as around their circumference to fully illuminate the domed glass rear lenses as well as the fronts. Most important, they fit within the dome. Additionally, the price was quite reasonable.

There are so many to choose from that at some point you just choose and throw caution to the wind.

Ray(64BJ8P1)

 

[John Turney]

Thanks Ray, I'll give them a try.

 

[BigGreen]

Does this work with positive ground ?

 

[RAC68]

Hi Big Green,

I'm sorry to say that I don't know. Over the years LEDs were polarity sensitive but recently I have noticed that this may no longer be true. I would suggest posing that question to the vendor of the selected 3rd Brake Light you choose as the LED may not be the only element involved within the unit that could be negatively effected by polarity.

Sorry I have no answer,
Ray(64BJ8P1)

 

[Htimsc]

I bought the LED unit recommended by Ray recently, on the US Healey site from an on-line place that sells to then motorcycle crowd (J&P Cycles, Kentucky, 1 800 318 4823). It has 12 LEDs and they flash on and off when the brake pedal is applied. There are several different models so ensure you buy what you think your are getting. There are three wires that come off the unit if you want to also wire it for flashing when indicators are on. I did not do that. For a mount, I cut a piece of oak (I had no access to metals of any useful kind), and fashioned to slightly larger than the LED unit. I then painted it with POR-15 (even though wood), and then with my hand-dandy little spray unit (Preval, Home Depot or Amazon, get additional air, it does not last that long. If using water-based paints as in California, it requires thinning, and the mix out of the nozzle is sensitive to the thickness/thinness of your paint - you will have to experiment a bit/a lot...). Not sure about any other paints. Practice a bit with the sprayer - once you get the handle of it, it really does work well for these types of jobs. Gave the base a couple of coats od paint and a coat of sealer. Can't tell from a metal fabricated piece... Wiring was simple by running down to the LHS brake light wiring (make sure you reach for the brake not the flasher assembly...just saying). Actually relatively simple to follow their diagram and to importantly ID the two of the three wires from the Lucas/BMC wiring diagram for the BJ8. Hopefully you have the Lucas coded wire that you can identify from the color on the schematic and that of the wire in the car. Once identified, no need to cut the wires if you use a three way junction coupler with bullet connectors that just clamps on to and through the sheath of the native wires. I led the two wires up, loose, to the upper lip of the boot/trunk, and let the rubber seal close on it securely.
The LED and painted base are fastened with the 3M double-backed tape already attached to the back on the LED strip. Be careful, it is powerful adhesive tape. I then bought and glued to the bottom of the wood those strips of magnetized tape from the hardware store. I carefully place this removable unit on the top edge of the boot/trunk lid. There is about 2" of wire that shows before it dives through the lid seal. I sprayed the wires the same as the car color so it helps visually hide them. I made this a removable unit and wire disconnect so I could take the whole thing out, so as to use the car at shows, etc., and not have a distraction of the LEDs on the back. I know others have made it a more permanent installation. Hope this helps someone.

 

[Keoke]

Good Show RAY

Mine is similar to yours except that I have a relay that inserts a diode in series with the lalamp .

The small voltage drop across the foreward resistance of the diode allows it to function as a running light , applying the brake energies the relay bypassing the diode and the light brightens to function as a stop light.

 

[steveg]

Good Show RAY

Mine is similar to yours except that I have a relay that inserts a diode in series with the lalamp .

The small voltage drop across the foreward resistance of the diode allows it to function as a running light , applying the brake energies the relay bypassing the diode and the light brightens to function as a stop light.

Elegant!

 

[BigGreen]

@Ray,
Thank you Ray, because this is the right answer for me. "Before purchasing, ask about the polarity".

Regards, Hans