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Things you should & shouldn't take apart...

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Randy Forbes

Randy Forbes

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Weber carbs. Comprising not less than one hundred forty three pieces (each, of three carbs; not counting the butterfly shaft which you should not disturb). From three years of non operation while sitting in a body shop, the gasoline evaporated and rendered the poor carbs useless. They couldn't pass gas if you gave them deviled eggs! I completely overhauled one of them this evening and I'll do the other two tomorrow. No problems and I've reaquainted myself with all the internal circuits again (previously memorized and forgotten).

Weber carbs; made to be taken apart. Piece of cake.

While I was out of town this past week, I had a set (minus the safety gauge) of VGC used gauges delivered. Only a minor bit of polishing on the chrome rings and cleaning of the faces and glass. Tachometer and speedometer came apart and went back together without a hitch. I even "zero'd" the odometer in anticipation of getting a fresh start with the "totalizer" when the car finally hits the road.

What I did learn today though, is that the fuel gauge was never meant to be taken apart. heck, there's hardly anything to it! But (I thought)it too should have the face wiped and glass cleaned.
Well, the needle bent so easily, I figured I'd better pull the back off so I could properly straighten it out. LOL! What are these separate coils doing in here? Oh, you mean they're spaced a certain distance to calibrate the **** thing?!

Oh well, I did manage to get it back together, but I just didn't have the enthusiasm to test it to see if it worked. I'll save that for some day when I've run out of things to discover if they should or should not be taken apart...
 
You sound like I did after I took apart the transmission in my Porsche a while ago. I reasoned that "it's only a mechanical device, how difficult can it be, anyway?"!!
 
Here's a few pictures that I took today while doing carb # 2.

The carbs are all done and waiting for the headers to come back from Jet Hot. I'm hoping to be able to get everything back together next weekend (if the headers arrive...).

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And this is part of the reason why my racing Spridget has a single 2" S&S sidedraft carb(Harley-style). It has only about 25 pieces including an adjustable idle jet and adjustable *main* jet.
Webers sure are pretty, though....
 
trafficators are fun also. lots of springs and
tiny pieces. gets easier after about the third time though.
gregg
 
<blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by fordhealey:
trafficators are fun also. lots of springs and
tiny pieces. gets easier after about the third time though.
gregg<hr></blockquote>

That's in my future too! I did new wiring on mine back in the late 70's and it's looking like it needs another run through.

Fortunately, all the pices are present and in working condition. Another one of those tasks that once you start, you stay with it until it's all back together again!
 
<blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by Randy Forbes:
That's in my future too! I did new wiring on mine back in the late 70's and it's looking like it needs another run through.<hr></blockquote>

Actually if you just need to replace the steering tube wiring harness you don't need to take the trafficator completely apart. Rotating the aluminum disk exposes the screws that hold each wire terminal and if you do just one at a time it's really a piece o' cake (especially compared to the number of weber parts you need to keep track of.

Cheers,
John
 
Thanks John, I'll give that a shot as it is only the wiring that looks bad.

I managed to get all the flaking black paint off the backside of my original 100/6 horn button (non-adjustable column). I bought some Testors (model car) paint to redo the underside's finish. I'm hopeful that the black shoe polish trick will restore the looks of the bakelite housing. Add in some light lubrication (dry graphite?) and I should be good to go!
 
Great photos Randy. What does 45 DCOE mean? I figure DC- means "dual choke"?? I never took apart my fuel gauge, but when taking apart the "speedo" and "tach" both needles fell off. I probably broke them dislodging the gauges from the dash.
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Randy, the good news is that the gazillion parts in a DCOE only go in one way, so it's actually pretty foolproof.

45 refers to the choke barrel size (not the choke, which is replaceable/adjustable)

DC is, in fact, dual choke (or the italian equivalent)

O is 'orizonatal (OK, it's the italian equivalent, there, too).

I forget what E refers to. I think it's the method of casting used.
 
I rebuilt a Carter AFB 4 barrel for a Buick Electra I was working on as a teen. I vowed the next time I did anything that fidgety, I would get a Watchmaker's desk and or pad. They are specially made to safely catch fiddly bits.
 
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