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Thermostat housing

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Baz

Baz

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Removed the three nuts (1275)from the outlet elbow, and I can' get the elbox thing off.....It's stuck solid. Before I get medieval with it, is there a fancy trick for loosening it? I've used penetrant for the past three days and that hasn't had much effect. It looks like the original gasket has melted/warped or something, because it has oozed out slightly over the years.
I have a 8 lb lump hammer on standby to get this off so I can replace the thermostat. I have a replacement elbow outlet but don't want to damage this one if I can help it.
 
Thin screwdriver and your lump gently.
 
I usually put a wooden dowel (size of a broom handle) in the hole and gently work the housing up and down until it frees-up. Hasn't failed me yet on a Sprite (did on a mini-van though!!).
Bill
 
Baz, it's been my experience that the most common reason the water outlet sticks is corrosion between the studs and the housing. APT sells a stainless stud kit that eliminates this problem. If you keep the original studs, clean the mount holes in the housing thoroughly, and coat the studs with some silicone grease on assembly. It will lessen the corrosion buildup in the future, and make removal much easier.
The broomstick idea works pretty well for removal of a stuck housing, though.
Jeff
 
I use bolts in my thermo housings, the rubber mallets works for me as well. I do have one of David's SS stud kits, I've been saving it for a rainy day.
 
[ QUOTE ]
I do have one of David's SS stud kits, I've been saving it for a rainy day.

[/ QUOTE ]

Sounds like me, Hap. I've got a bunch of good stuff that I'm saving for the same rainy day! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif
I should really think about installing some of these things. Like the Tilton pedals and cylinders, and the rear discs on the "H" car.
Jeff
 
Now's the time, I have not started assembly of car, so all this stuff you have been saveing just send it on. I promise to install it. LOL
 
the thermostat housing is a tight fit on the studs and doesnt move freely even when loose.....a chisel and some easy taps should break ur old gasket free though...zzimmy
 
Think thin screwdriver and a small hammer.
 
One of the two had to give, unfortunately for me, it was the broom handle. Look on the Mrs face is a bad start to the day.
Thanks, got it off, thin screwdriver and hammer; will clean it and pop the new one on.
Should I put any sealant on the new gasket?
 
Of course, some of the non harding kind.
 
i believe i put sealant on mine...50 miles so far, no leaks....guess it worked ; )
change ALL ur hoses too for a confidence booster..just a bit over $30..........zimmy
 
Test the hoses first, they likely ok.
 
Intersting development...
New hoses, radiator, water pump, t'stat etc. Took it for our usual 15 mile test circuit and noticed a considerable reduction in firewall heat. Although the temp prior to all this was within normal limits, and the gauge says normal now, it was a lot more comfortable. No leaks, so I'm guessing it's just doing a more efficient job of removing heat whereas it was just removing heat. I'm very happy.
Thanks again gentlemen.
 
LOL, I have a rear disc kit sitting around too and a set of compostie rear springs. I going to start building a vintage car this winter, I fiquire I already own 80% of everything I need to build it with.
 
Hap, I think everything I own is vintage! I've got the Bugeye here that I flipped at Waterford, that just <u>begs</u> to be turned into a vintage car. It only had screw on flares, and I've got a couple of steel bonnets, a nice 1275 with a thru tunnel exhaust,.......
All I lack is the time! And maybe the ambition. Too many unfinished projects. Right now I'm trying to muster the energy to go change the oil on the "Stealth" Fiat 850 Spyder.
Jeff
 
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