-
Hey Guest!
British Car Forum has been supporting enthusiasts for over 25 years by providing a great place to share our love for British cars. You can support our efforts by upgrading your membership for less than the dues of most car clubs. There are some perks with a member upgrade!**Upgrade Now**
(PS: Upgraded members don't see this banner, nor will you see the Google ads that appear on the site.)
Hey - did you know if you click on the title of a thread it will take you to the first unread post since you last visited that thread?
but were afraid to ask: 
STOP!! Never post your email address in open forums. Bots can "harvest" your email! If you must share your email use a Private Message or use the 
smilie in place of the real @
Pretty Please - add it to our Events forum(s) and add to the calendar! >> 
The Best Oil
- Thread starter KVH
- Start date
Share this page
R
RonMacPherson
Guest
Guest
Offline
Re: The Best Oil - for carburetter piston damper?
Moss sells it(or used to) I gave my catalogs away to a friend who is starting on a 6.
Oil specifically for dampeners, They also sell the o-rings for sealing the dampeners(where the oil escapes past).
Moss sells it(or used to) I gave my catalogs away to a friend who is starting on a 6.
Oil specifically for dampeners, They also sell the o-rings for sealing the dampeners(where the oil escapes past).
philknight
Jedi Hopeful
Offline
Re: The Best Oil - for carburetter piston damper?
Are there any ZDDP and phosphorous suppliments that can be added to say Castrol 20/50 to make it more flat tappet friendly? The local LBC shop around here has switched to using Redline oils after 30 years of using strictly Castrol oils.
Are there any ZDDP and phosphorous suppliments that can be added to say Castrol 20/50 to make it more flat tappet friendly? The local LBC shop around here has switched to using Redline oils after 30 years of using strictly Castrol oils.
Offline
Re: The Best Oil - for carburetter piston damper?
G.M. E.O.S. #1052367, 16 oz. Now called "Assembly Lubricant". Formerly called "Engine Oil Supplement". Loaded with ZDDP.
D
G.M. E.O.S. #1052367, 16 oz. Now called "Assembly Lubricant". Formerly called "Engine Oil Supplement". Loaded with ZDDP.
D
Re: The Best Oil - for carburetter piston damper?
FWIW, I read this article
https://www.tampabaybritishcarclub.com/Tech_Tips/tech_tips.html
and started using Shell Rotella
FWIW, I read this article
https://www.tampabaybritishcarclub.com/Tech_Tips/tech_tips.html
and started using Shell Rotella
Offline
Re: The Best Oil - for carburetter piston damper?
Most chain auto parts store should have it. My local Walmart often seems to have some...or not. Their oil stock varies, but that seems true of most of the store. /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/smile.gifAweMan said:
trfourtune
Jedi Knight
Offline
Re: The Best Oil - for carburetter piston damper?
just to throw a wrench in the works,an engine is an engine. tolerances, clearances, operating temperatures, conditions(racing,stop & go traffic,cold climate, hot climate, hyway cruising, metal/oil compatibility, is what determines the oil requirements.
Synthetics are superior, period. You cannot break in an engine on synthetics (lubrication is too good),you need the rings etc to wear in to make good seals. Parts need to lap against each other for final fit. That's why you make more power and better economy after the break in period.
IMHO catrol is not good (i have alway found sediment in the container). Mobil 1 100% synthetic is excellent.
I have a japanese (from japan directly) landcruiser turbo diesel that cannot use most north american diesel oil because of the magnesium in it. Japanese diesels run hotter oil temps and need high calcium oil. If they don't the rod bearings overheat and flake apart.(has to do with the magnesium)
So, it is important to consider the additives in the oil as well. most british cars run hot so the heavier weight oil has historically been better, but......,with synthetics, the oil does not break down under high temps like the old oil did so you can run a lighter weight oil and gain power and economy because it flows easier and takes less power to pump it through the engine and returns to the pan quicker. Most manufacturers now recommend 5-30 or 0-30 because of this and the "cold flow" when you start up is superior and start up is considered the highest wear period an engine goes through.
If a higher quality oil saves my engine, that is always the way i will go.
Now filters are another story.There are a lot of bad ones out there.I cut mine apart after an oil change to check filtered contents and to check the quality of the filter.some that used to be good aren't any more.I'd suggest all look into this (search the web, cut yours apart)and compare. one of the biggest names are among the worst.
rob
just to throw a wrench in the works,an engine is an engine. tolerances, clearances, operating temperatures, conditions(racing,stop & go traffic,cold climate, hot climate, hyway cruising, metal/oil compatibility, is what determines the oil requirements.
Synthetics are superior, period. You cannot break in an engine on synthetics (lubrication is too good),you need the rings etc to wear in to make good seals. Parts need to lap against each other for final fit. That's why you make more power and better economy after the break in period.
IMHO catrol is not good (i have alway found sediment in the container). Mobil 1 100% synthetic is excellent.
I have a japanese (from japan directly) landcruiser turbo diesel that cannot use most north american diesel oil because of the magnesium in it. Japanese diesels run hotter oil temps and need high calcium oil. If they don't the rod bearings overheat and flake apart.(has to do with the magnesium)
So, it is important to consider the additives in the oil as well. most british cars run hot so the heavier weight oil has historically been better, but......,with synthetics, the oil does not break down under high temps like the old oil did so you can run a lighter weight oil and gain power and economy because it flows easier and takes less power to pump it through the engine and returns to the pan quicker. Most manufacturers now recommend 5-30 or 0-30 because of this and the "cold flow" when you start up is superior and start up is considered the highest wear period an engine goes through.
If a higher quality oil saves my engine, that is always the way i will go.
Now filters are another story.There are a lot of bad ones out there.I cut mine apart after an oil change to check filtered contents and to check the quality of the filter.some that used to be good aren't any more.I'd suggest all look into this (search the web, cut yours apart)and compare. one of the biggest names are among the worst.
rob
tomshobby
Yoda
Offline
Re: The Best Oil - for carburetter piston damper?
I think it will be interesting to compare notes 4 or 5 years down the road and see which oils seem to work best. I will be following what seems to be the trend in the collector car world and that of many of the engine builders.
I think it will be interesting to compare notes 4 or 5 years down the road and see which oils seem to work best. I will be following what seems to be the trend in the collector car world and that of many of the engine builders.
Re: The Best Oil - for carburetter piston damper?
I have said before the oil debate is a can of worms, nobody is right and nobody is wrong, its all a matter of opinion with alot of questions that go unanswered.-------- I raced with Valvoline for years with good results, Castrol is good too although I have never felt 20-50 is a must for Triumph motors. A few years ago in all my cars I started running my own synthetic blend, 3qts regular oil and 2qts Mobile 1 and after my TR motor breaks in It will get the same ,probably 15-40. Some of you might ask why not just run an already blended oil,---because according to some articles by oil experts the blended oil that you buy off the shelf is only about 8% synthetic, thats about 3/8 qt of synthetic to 5qts oil. The oil companys want you to believe that you are getting a 50/50 blend but if you notice they dont list the percentages on the bottle. One other little know thing is that Castrol Syntec is not a true synthetic oil, it is a more highly refined regular oil that the U.S. allows Castrol to sell as synthetic. In Europe it is not allowed to be sold as synthetic.-------What is the best oil?----nobody knows for sure, I think its kind of like a placebo,--which ever oil is used, if you feel it works good -then it is good.
I have said before the oil debate is a can of worms, nobody is right and nobody is wrong, its all a matter of opinion with alot of questions that go unanswered.-------- I raced with Valvoline for years with good results, Castrol is good too although I have never felt 20-50 is a must for Triumph motors. A few years ago in all my cars I started running my own synthetic blend, 3qts regular oil and 2qts Mobile 1 and after my TR motor breaks in It will get the same ,probably 15-40. Some of you might ask why not just run an already blended oil,---because according to some articles by oil experts the blended oil that you buy off the shelf is only about 8% synthetic, thats about 3/8 qt of synthetic to 5qts oil. The oil companys want you to believe that you are getting a 50/50 blend but if you notice they dont list the percentages on the bottle. One other little know thing is that Castrol Syntec is not a true synthetic oil, it is a more highly refined regular oil that the U.S. allows Castrol to sell as synthetic. In Europe it is not allowed to be sold as synthetic.-------What is the best oil?----nobody knows for sure, I think its kind of like a placebo,--which ever oil is used, if you feel it works good -then it is good.
trfourtune
Jedi Knight
Offline
Re: The Best Oil - for carburetter piston damper?
You are correct about the zddp.
Rob
You are correct about the zddp.
Rob
tomshobby
Yoda
Offline
Re: The Best Oil - for carburetter piston damper?
I am not sure which to use either. Like Allan said, it is a can of worms. And like I stated we can compare notes over time. Is there some way of charting our own experiences that would make some kind of apples to apples comparison as time goes on?
I am not sure which to use either. Like Allan said, it is a can of worms. And like I stated we can compare notes over time. Is there some way of charting our own experiences that would make some kind of apples to apples comparison as time goes on?
Scott_Hower
Luke Skywalker
Offline
Re: The Best Oil - for carburetter piston damper?
I run Castrol 20W-50 in the MGB and Castrol 10-40 in the Spit.
I use Mobil 1 80-90 in the diffs and Redline MT-90 in the gearbox.
The BMWs require full synthetic (Mobil 1 0W-40, 8qts each). I still change it every 5 or 6 thousand miles just for piece of mind. Seems like I'm changing oil every other weekend in something. The local Autozone refused to accept the drain oil (told me I was over my limit). Luckily a local diesel engine shop now takes every drop. I've never asked what they do with it.
I run Castrol 20W-50 in the MGB and Castrol 10-40 in the Spit.
I use Mobil 1 80-90 in the diffs and Redline MT-90 in the gearbox.
The BMWs require full synthetic (Mobil 1 0W-40, 8qts each). I still change it every 5 or 6 thousand miles just for piece of mind. Seems like I'm changing oil every other weekend in something. The local Autozone refused to accept the drain oil (told me I was over my limit). Luckily a local diesel engine shop now takes every drop. I've never asked what they do with it.
Offline
Re: The Best Oil - for carburetter piston damper?
I bought my Herald 1200 five years ago, with just over 50,000 miles on a seemingly original engine in excellent condition. I've put about 27,000 miles on it in those five years, using only Castrol GTX 20W/50 (last oil change I went to their high-mileage version 10W/40 for over winter). Best as I can tell, there has been no deterioration of that engine; it still runs fine and uses almost no oil between changes.
Well, since I'm already there.... /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/smile.giftomshobby said:
I bought my Herald 1200 five years ago, with just over 50,000 miles on a seemingly original engine in excellent condition. I've put about 27,000 miles on it in those five years, using only Castrol GTX 20W/50 (last oil change I went to their high-mileage version 10W/40 for over winter). Best as I can tell, there has been no deterioration of that engine; it still runs fine and uses almost no oil between changes.
kc_doyle
Jedi Trainee
Offline
Re: The Best Oil - for carburetter piston damper?
I've used a Pensoil or Quaker State oil for a long time, in my fords and my truck. When one time I had the occasion to take off the valve cover I found far too much sludge. I was told it was because Penn. oils are a paraffin base. I no longer use a Penn. oil and have found far less gunk. Again, it's just my opinion.
I've used a Pensoil or Quaker State oil for a long time, in my fords and my truck. When one time I had the occasion to take off the valve cover I found far too much sludge. I was told it was because Penn. oils are a paraffin base. I no longer use a Penn. oil and have found far less gunk. Again, it's just my opinion.
AweMan
Jedi Knight
Offline
Re: The Best Oil - for carburetter piston damper?
Unless you have owned an engine all of its life from the factory and can veribly say it was ran on one specific oil for the entire time. It is hard to make a statement that one oil or the other causes sludge.
I have had such engine{s} ran on specific brands of oil including one 302 ford on pensoil when I replaced the timing chain on it At 98,000 miles, it was spic and span on the inside.
One G.M. {Olds Toronado} I had {Bought new} was ran over 200,000 miles on Quaker state and yes it too was very clean on the inside. Maintenance plays a very big part here, changing oil regularly replacing filters {Everytime}. Driving habits even play a part, short distances verses long {giving your engine enough time and residual heat to evaporate any moisture.} Heavy foot verses what I call grandma driving will make a big difference in how contaminated and how fast it becomes contaminated your oil gets.
Oil is like religion choose the one you like stick with it, and change it regularly and don`t forget the filter.
Good maintenance goes a long way towards maintaining a healthy engine.
Unless you have owned an engine all of its life from the factory and can veribly say it was ran on one specific oil for the entire time. It is hard to make a statement that one oil or the other causes sludge.
I have had such engine{s} ran on specific brands of oil including one 302 ford on pensoil when I replaced the timing chain on it At 98,000 miles, it was spic and span on the inside.
One G.M. {Olds Toronado} I had {Bought new} was ran over 200,000 miles on Quaker state and yes it too was very clean on the inside. Maintenance plays a very big part here, changing oil regularly replacing filters {Everytime}. Driving habits even play a part, short distances verses long {giving your engine enough time and residual heat to evaporate any moisture.} Heavy foot verses what I call grandma driving will make a big difference in how contaminated and how fast it becomes contaminated your oil gets.
Oil is like religion choose the one you like stick with it, and change it regularly and don`t forget the filter.
Good maintenance goes a long way towards maintaining a healthy engine.