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Tempting.... to check electrics !!!!!!

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KLUTZ

KLUTZ

Luke Skywalker
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Should I or shouldn't I? With the engine apart, is it safe to throw a battery in the GT to check the lights and such, or will there be a major ground that would probably not be connected? The Dist. is still on the block, as well as everything else, 'sept the top and pistons.
And... Why am I confused by this, but does the short battery wire that goes to the frame go on the Neg. Battery post, and the other go to the Pos.? For some reason, I have gotten the idea that these cars are backwards!!!
Thanks
Paul
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get a small plug in 12 v power supply and check for volatge at the appropriate plugs. it probably won't generate enough curreent to run your lights, but it won't burn up your wiring harness if you have a short. and all later B's are neg ground
 
Thanks Chuck. I had a 12V here, so I did what you suggested. I checked a couple places and they were getting power. I then put in the batery from my daughter's Daytona, (What a stupid spot for a batery), and crossed my fingers. Well... Everything works. All the lights, including signals, hazards, brights... The dash lights, the license plate lights, the wipers, the windshield wash pump, The AM Radio works too. Horn doesn't work, nor the little map light above the radio. The cover is broken off if anyone has one kicking around.
I wouldn't think the blower would be hooked up though since it didn't work.
When I turn the key, somthing in the back makes a WOOING noise. Would that be the fuel pump or what?
So.. that was my day of discovery. A positive step I would say.
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<blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by KLUTZ:
When I turn the key, somthing in the back makes a WOOING noise. Would that be the fuel pump or what?
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wooing or buzzing or clicking should be the fuel pump. My first experience with that was with a 1965 MGB and it ticked away and my car would not start. It had a fuel delivery problem (out of gas)

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If your horns didn't work, it can sometimes be fixed by "smacking" it with a blunt instrument.
That repair method is used frequently with older LBC's but in this case is recommended. Do it while someone holds the horn button down.

If that doesn't work, evaluate the horns by connecting the power directly to the horn to rule out the horn button contacts.

Actually, the horns are pretty anemic to begin with, so you are not missing much.

Ed
 
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