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Temperature capillary tube removal

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Ray7Smith

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Am having one heck of a time trying to remove the capillary tube from the head on my BJ7. Aside from purchasing a specialty wrench, does anyone have suggestions on removal of said item? Is it permissable to use heat in an attempt to get the nut on the tube lose, or would this damage the capillary tube?

Ray
 
Try some crc and gentle hits with a small hammer with a piece of metal held firmly against the flat of the nut on the opposite side, probably tight due to metal difference action ie brass into cast iron, might be enough to break the nut loose
 
Hi Ray,

After liberal application of penetrating lube, tapping and time ...

You can take a deep socket and using a hand grinder or mill (the better way) cut a slot from the 'socket end' almost all the way to the drive end. The slot needs to be wide enough to allow the capillary tube to fit through. Open a hose clamp and reassemble it over the tube, slide the socket onto the nut and tighten clamp to keep the slotted end from expanding. Sometimes it helps to apply pressure to tighten the nut first (breaking things loose) before applying CCW direction to remove it.

Cheers,
John
 
Ray,

If you search through the archives, there have been some recent threads talking about this subject. They cover methods and some very simply home-made/modified tools.

Search for "Temperature bulb removal" and "thermostate fitting in eng. block" in the Healey section. The second search will get you the better thread.

Mark
 
I saw some crazy wrench at Home Depot that grabbed the nut at 90 degrees from the handle. Being adjustable, it had open sides. I am not sure how thick it's sides were to get into the tight space required. It was about 1 1/2 inches long at the business end (adjustabble socket). I know I'm not discribing this well but it wasn't very expensive.
 
Similar to the above, I slotted a standard box wrench. Sender came out in no time. Juice it up good as the nut portion of the fitting has to rotate around the cap tubing. Bob
 
Hi Ray,
Most of the time that I have a brass fitting in a engine block or cylinder head that won't move,I tighten it a bit and then loosen it . Just tighten it enough to see it move and then she'll come out. Works for me and I hope for you.
Good Luck!!
Bobby R
 
Ray

I ground out and modified the outsides of an open ended spanner that had a strange crank on the end that could have been just made for the job, it worked for me.

Bob
 
Hey Guys, finally got the tube out without destroying anything. Feels nice to save $150.00.

As always, the people on this site are real life savers when it comes to sound advise.

Thanks,

Ray
 
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