Tasteful Upgrades for a Bugeye [part II]

[twas_brillig]

[FONT=&quot]Fuel System:[/FONT][FONT=&quot][/FONT]
	[FONT=&quot]- add an in-line fuel filter[/FONT][FONT=&quot][/FONT]
	[FONT=&quot]- a 1275 engine will require an electric fuel pump; there are some advantages to replacing the mechanical with electric (fuel pressure available before cranking; vs PITA factors regards adding if you don't really want one)[/FONT][FONT=&quot][/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]Transmission:[/FONT][FONT=&quot][/FONT]
	[FONT=&quot]- Datsun 5 speed with Rivergate or Gerard's ; life will be easier if you make a cut-out in the top of the bellhousing when installing 1275 engines[/FONT][FONT=&quot][/FONT]
	[FONT=&quot]- Ford 5 speed (note that this apparently requires body mods)[/FONT][FONT=&quot][/FONT]
	[FONT=&quot]- fibreglas replacement cupola for Datsun trans swap[/FONT][FONT=&quot][/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]Clutch:[/FONT][FONT=&quot][/FONT]
	[FONT=&quot]- use Gerard's approach to using Datsun clutch with Datsun 5 speed[/FONT][FONT=&quot][/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]Cooling:[/FONT][FONT=&quot][/FONT]
	[FONT=&quot]- later plastic fan[/FONT][FONT=&quot][/FONT]
	[FONT=&quot]- add water wetter[/FONT][FONT=&quot][/FONT]
	[FONT=&quot]- overflow tank[/FONT][FONT=&quot][/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]Hydraulics:[/FONT][FONT=&quot][/FONT]
	[FONT=&quot]- get master cylinder resleeved to match disc brakes or clutch changes[/FONT][FONT=&quot][/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]Lubricants:[/FONT][FONT=&quot][/FONT]
	[FONT=&quot]- whatever oil works best for you (Valvoline 20-50 racing oil one of the better ones)[/FONT][FONT=&quot][/FONT]
	[FONT=&quot]- Redline fluids for transmission and differential[/FONT][FONT=&quot][/FONT]
	[FONT=&quot]- (please note that the above are my personal prejudices)[/FONT][FONT=&quot][/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]Electrical:[/FONT][FONT=&quot][/FONT]
	[FONT=&quot]- splice in a 'cigarette lighter, mounting it to the wood behind the grab handle/behind the dash; or add some sort of USB power source for your GPS and phone[/FONT][FONT=&quot][/FONT]
	[FONT=&quot]- switch to negative ground (one our BE's is neg; one is pos; this may impact electric fuel pump, LED tail/brake lights; possibly ignition)[/FONT][FONT=&quot][/FONT]
	[FONT=&quot]- replace generator with alternator (if you want to have your tachometer maintain original stock appearance, you'll have to build one)[/FONT][FONT=&quot][/FONT]
	[FONT=&quot]- there are a variety of choices should you need to replace the wiring harness, varying from a low cost duplicate up to a wiring kit with more relays and fuses than the space shuttle. We used an extremely expensive kit that - for my needs and purposes - was more work and overkill than really needed. But it is one heck of a harness[/FONT][FONT=&quot][/FONT]
	[FONT=&quot]- add a big label on the firewall identifying if the car is positive or negative ground; also add coloured washers/connection covers[/FONT][FONT=&quot][/FONT]
	[FONT=&quot]- buy an intelligent charger for the battery[/FONT][FONT=&quot][/FONT]

 

[Rut]

Very good list of modifications and they all make the Bugeye a ‘nicer’ car to drive. The Datsun 5 speed along with the 1275 really improve the driving experience, especially when you consider that we have to drive alongside modern cars. After modifying a couple of flywheels for the Datsun clutch I would probably go with the Rivergate modified disc for simplicity and cost savings. I’ve driven both pretty hard and can’t tell the difference...do what makes sense to you.
I had my MC resleeved by Sierra before they shut down and they did an excellent job. I also use Rivergates slave cylinder kit which comes with everything needed for installation including the flexible line from the MC and I add a remote bleeder.
I use BillMs rear transmission mount since it is lower and allows you to install everything without bashing in the heater shelf and cutting out the transmission.
I also use a ‘garage special’ short shifter that I made up awhile back to keep from modifying the cupola or ‘Top hat’ which allows me to adjust throw, shifter length, and centering for less than $20 that anyone can make with basic tools. The cutting and welding of the original shifter just didn’t make sense to me and I also lost the original in the fire along with the tranny.
Thanks for the list!
Rut

 

[nomad]

I don't believe its necessary to notch the transmission bell housing when going into a BE. You wouldn't have the cross member that exists on the later car's to get over and should be able to slide the unit in right between the uprights that hold the radiator.


Kurt

 

[Mk3Sprite]

Interesting list and ideas. I've been considering the same sort of questions for my rebuild. For electricals I'd add the following comments

- hidden switch to electric fuel pump supply, a would be thief gets about 500m down the road before it runs out
- electric supply for concealed gps tracker, the sort you phone up and they report position
- I'd like to provide better fusing arrangements, the original is primitive
- for leds you made a comment on high cost, but if you go negative earth I've been grabbing some globes from ebay - BA9s and BA15s for parkers and flashers about $1 for two, BA15d for brake / tail not much more, E10s for dash. Note that I started down this track thinking I might reduce the current draw on the generator, but measurements suggest some (eg BA9s with 10 x 3528 leds) draw similar current to the incandescent I wish to replace. You do get the benefit of instant response and greater brightness though.

 

[drooartz]

Good list indeed. My Bugeye will have many of those things. I can certainly vouch for the 1275/Datsun 5-speed pairing -- my Morris Minor runs that combo and it is just lovely. I used Gerard's kit for the Morris, and have one on hand for my Bugeye when I can finally get to it.

 

[SD Bugeye]

I have a bugeye with 5 speed Datsun and scary little 948
no bending no cutting to get it in.
weld the shifter up the cup / boot I never had to change anything looks original works fine .
I would use silicone hoses the hose between the head and block on mine disintegrated making a mess under the hood .
using a small form alternator and a modernizing the mech tach is the way to go
found a non functioning tach same size as the ordinal RVI ? Moved the face on to it and needle then converted it to the Spida kit works perfect.