Follow along with the video below to see how to install our site as a web app on your home screen.
Note: This feature may not be available in some browsers.
Hi Guest! You can help ensure that British Car Forum (BCF) continues to provide a great place to engage in the British car hobby! If you find BCF a beneficial community, please consider supporting our efforts with a subscription. There are some perks with a member upgrade!
**Upgrade Now** (PS: Subscribers don't see this gawd-aweful banner
Tips
We have a special forum called "Member Articles" where you can submit actual articles for consideration for publication. Learn More
Don't have an Avatar? If not, your avatar will default to the 1st character in your username. Go into "Account Details" to change your Avatar.
Hey there Guest - be sure to keep your profile page up to date with interesting info about yourself: learn more
What the heck is that "Resources" tab up there all about? Learn more
More tips and tricks on Posting and Replying: click
Everything you've ever wanted to know about bookmarks, but were afraid to ask: Learn More
STOP!! Never post your email address in open forums. Bots can "harvest" your email! If you must share your email use a Private Message or use the smilie in place of the real @
Want to mention another member in a post & get their attention? WATCH THIS
So, you created a "Group" here at BCF and would like to invite other members to join? Watch this!
Hey Guest - A post a day keeps Basil from visiting you in the small hours and putting a bat up your nightdress!
Hey Guest - do you know of an upcoming British car event? Pretty Please - add it to our Events forum(s) and add to the calendar! >> Here's How <<
Hey Guest - you be stylin' Change the look and feel of the forum to fit your taste. Check it out
If you run across an inappropriate post, for example a post that breaks our rules or looks like it might be spam, you can report the post to the moderators: Learn More
If you would like to try some different "looks" or styles for the site, scroll to the very bottom, on the left and click the Style Selector.
I don't know the answer, but the '69 E-type I am working on does the same thing. Only it fails hot or cold. But a tap on the instrument usually gets it going again.
It acts like a bad ground or something. I did check the wires on it, and all are secure.
I'm hoping to hear of a simple fix before I try to remove and replace the thing.
<blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by Basil: I suspect its just dirty and needs cleaning.
Basil<hr></blockquote>
Check the condition of the instrument cluster wiring connector where it plugs into the panel. the connector contacts or the female contacts in The panel connector contacts may have tarnish or corrosion that interfers with the signal. As the contacts heat up because of the tarnish, the resistance lowers and the signal would then be near normal. Clean the contacts with some steel wool.
Make sure that the battery is disconnected first so as not to fry anything.
<blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><hr>or the female contacts <hr></blockquote>
hmmmmmmmm
<blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><hr>ay have tarnish or corrosion that interfers with the signal. As the contacts heat up because of the tarnish, the resistance lowers and the signal would then be near normal. Clean the contacts with some steel wool. <hr></blockquote>
....ok...I was already daydreaming...thanks for waking me up...
FYI, I finally removed my tach and took it to a local instrument shop. They said it had a bad ground on the internal circuit board that they were able to fix.
It seems to work OK now, time will tell if this fix is permanent.
Question: does anyone know if electronic ignition setups (like Pertronix) will affect these electronic tachs?
Pertronic and Crane/Allison ignition ignition kits will not interfere with the tachs that this topic discusses. There can be problems with E Type tachs that have a positive signal drive but the tachs can be rewired. The XJ tachs have no problems with the Pertronic.
<blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by Healey 100: But a tap on the instrument usually gets it going again.
snip
I'm hoping to hear of a simple fix before I try to remove and replace the thing.
Bill.<hr></blockquote>
I think that Jag had a special tool - "rubber tach tapping hammer" which might still be available.
Bob Stevenson, The tachometer arrangement I was refering to is a series 2 that uses the 12 volts to the coil primary circuit through the tach signal to get the drive. You are right in that the series 1 uses a sseparate transduder on the back of the cam drive. The positive drive on the series 2 is a little flakey with a Pektronic.
This site uses cookies to help personalise content, tailor your experience and to keep you logged in if you register.
By continuing to use this site, you are consenting to our use of cookies.