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Suspension Questions?

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Norton47

Jedi Warrior
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Alright, with that engine out of the way, I want to replace my steering rack mount bushings.
Do you use a pickle fork type tool to separate the tie rod ends from the steering arm?
The Bentley calls out a service tool S166 I believe, but not listing in the back or picture.

While looking into this I more closely inspected my A arm bushings. It appears that they are poly on the lower and metal on the top.
Is this a racer thing? They have a rubber band, whose function I guess is to cover the joints between the parts. I have a friends 75 TR6 and it has stock bushings (worn also) and this is definitely different.
So I am planning to replace the top bushings with new poly assemblies.
So in scoping that job, I got to thinking about new springs and then that made me wonder about upgrading and lowering?
Are the various uprated spring set that also lower a viable upgrade? I am thinking that it will roll less on the corners and be a bit tighter in cornering also. The ride may be harsher I would guess.

I understand I will lose ground clearance but my 1974 TR6 sits higher anyway doesn't it?
This car has also had a rear sway bar added. I forgot to measure it, but seems about the same size as the front.
What about front and rear wheel alignment, any changes there?
To take out the front spring will I have to separate the front ball joints?
What tool for that?
Is this just all Kid Stuff and should I just leave it stock?
Thanks
 
You don't need to separate the tie rod ends to change the mounting bushes. Once you unfasten the nuts underneath (two per side) there is a plate under the chassis, which (will just fall on your head) then the top U-shaped metal part lifts off. The rubber bushing has a cut through one side to allo it to come off the rack without doing much more than lifting it for a bit of clearance.

As for the special tool, as I understand it this pushes the bushings outwards to ensure that the rack is held tight while you tighten the nuts. I read somewhere that you can achieve much the samething by turning the steering to full lock and tightening whichever bushing is held tight, ten turn the other way to tighten the other one. I replaced my bushes with the Goodparts aluminium mounts, so I don't know whether it works with rubber.

I don't know about uprated springs, solid bushes etc, but as for separating the ball joint, I suggest you loosen the nut (don't take it all the way off) then hold one big hammer on one side of the vertical link (where the ball joint passes through) and hit the other side with your biggest hammer. Should only take a few thumps before ball join seaprates, and the spring pressure will make sure it pops as soon as the "fit" is broken. Obviously you then need to support the spring pressure (or remove the spring) before you remove the ball joint nut.

Hope that helps
Alistair
 
You do not need to separate the ball joint to remove the spring.
Your best bet is to purchase a Robert Bentley manual that will instruct you on just about every maintenance project you would ever want to perform. It is always good to have that information at hand for planning a job and for referral.
Goodpart springs are very firm in the front and softer in the rear. The ride is comfortable, but you feel everything through the wheel. My car has 2 1/2" of clearance at the front sway bar making everything an obstacle. This height can be raised with spacers he has available. With the front and rear swaybars, the car is unlike any TR6 you have ever driven. It is very well balanced and a ball to drive.
I also have the solid steering rack mounts, nylon bushings, and tubular shock conversion in the rear.
They are not for everyone. If you go with the springs, I would suggest you go with the shock conversion. I don't bottom out nearly as much as I did with the lever shocks.
Good luck!
 
Thanks for the input. I also wasn't totally clear, I also want to replace the tie rod ends and the gaiters and the rack bushes. The Bentleys states for the gaiters to go to operation 57.55.02, step 4 is release ball joint from steering arm.
I see the special tool it calls out for ensuring the rack mounts are firmly placed before tightening the u bolts. That is S341. I can see how the short cut steps Bash identifies work out. But I will need to take the tie rod ends off.
I see for the for the upper wishbone arms, I will only need to relieve the spring pressure to remove them.
I understand Bash's short cut for removing the ball joint, support one side and bash it with a hammer on the other. Sorry Bash couldn't resist it. This would make what I suppose is a slight taper fit release.
Thanks again.
 
don't you just rotate the tie rods off the rack?
 
I bought a tie rod separating tool from NAPA. Works like a charm. Cheap enough. Never was very good at the 2-hammer trick. Reminds of a camel joke I once heard.
 
Bugeye58 said:
Would that be the two week camel, Bill? /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/grin.gif
Jeff
Click to expand...

Exactly. Coming from an Arab, that is an urban, er, desert, legend.
 
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