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Subaru fluid leak
- Thread starter pdplot
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Paul - that color sounds like a coolant. Could be overflow from a newly-serviced cooling system.
https://www.holtsauto.com/prestone/news/whats-leaking-car/
Tom M.
https://www.holtsauto.com/prestone/news/whats-leaking-car/
Tom M.
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While this is only a guess, the colors you describe (orange/yellow) “could be” rusty coolant.
Let us know what they find.
Let us know what they find.
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I agree that orange/yellow looks like coolant, but new cars, like the Subaru, have a coolant recovery container, so it shouldn't drip on the floor. What does it feel / smell like?
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I know how you feel... I had to replace the rear shock on my '63 Lambretta last summer. Common, wouldn't you think it should last more than 57 years? :rolleye:
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Brake fluid?? Likely not, but important.
A quick google search on Subaru coolant color suggests it is teal. (Although some say blue.) However, dealers may not use OEM fluids - I had a Toyota dealer turn my red coolant to purple when they added a green coolant to top it off. (I complained to Toyota, but they told me dealers can do what they want... eventually the dealer drained and filled with OEM.)
Brake fluid should be light amber, per Subaru.com.
Hope it is under warranty?
A quick google search on Subaru coolant color suggests it is teal. (Although some say blue.) However, dealers may not use OEM fluids - I had a Toyota dealer turn my red coolant to purple when they added a green coolant to top it off. (I complained to Toyota, but they told me dealers can do what they want... eventually the dealer drained and filled with OEM.)
Brake fluid should be light amber, per Subaru.com.
Hope it is under warranty?
Dealer called. Kept the car overnight. They said it was a leaky drain plug gasket. Picked it up this am and we'll see. My description was bad - just new oil, yellow color. Thanks for the responses. I suspect sloppy work when they changed the oil the last time it was in for 30K mile service.
Amen to that. The check engine light never came on.
Closest I ever came to running dry was in 1955 driving my 1951 MG TD from Philly to CT. Burned through over 4 quarts of oil. I had a private shop near Camden put in new rings for $110.00. Problem cured, at least until my rod bearings blew out one evening on the Merritt Parkway. The TC/TD was never meant for high-speed driving, really, just puttering down a narrow English country lane. The piston speed at 60 mph is astronomical. 5.125 to 1 rear end ratio = 15 mph per 1000 rpm.
Closest I ever came to running dry was in 1955 driving my 1951 MG TD from Philly to CT. Burned through over 4 quarts of oil. I had a private shop near Camden put in new rings for $110.00. Problem cured, at least until my rod bearings blew out one evening on the Merritt Parkway. The TC/TD was never meant for high-speed driving, really, just puttering down a narrow English country lane. The piston speed at 60 mph is astronomical. 5.125 to 1 rear end ratio = 15 mph per 1000 rpm.