Stud installation question

[Darrell_Walker]

Basic question on installing studs (in this case, the intake/exhaust studs on my head). Is there any reason to torque them in tighter than finger tight? I've always done the double-nut thing and snugged them in, but wondering if that is really needed.

Thanks!

 

[Guest]

I'm with you on the finger tight. Well, maybe a really strong finger. But don't torque them down.

 

[Opa]

I'm with Bill, finger tight should do.

 

[Geo Hahn]

Me too, not much of a problem if a stud backs out when you're wanting to undo the nut compared to having them easy to remove if need be.

What manner of manifold nuts do people prefer... steel? brass? regular? long? I've seen all on TRs so I don't know that any are particularly correct.

 

[TR3driver]

I had an old Mechanical Engineer (and XKE150 owner) once try to explain to me why they should be torqued in; but it never made sense to me. And I note ARP says "finger tight". But I like to put a little bit of torque on mine, to ensure that they don't come out by accident if a nut binds a little.

I use tall steel nuts on the center studs (the ones with bridge pieces) just because that appears to be original. On the two outermost studs, I use brass nuts because my original steel nuts have broken studs in them /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/grin.gif

But that was before I learned of the wonders of anti-seize, so I wouldn't go out of my way to find brass if I were doing it again today. (My local FLAPS had the brass nuts in a package intended for a GM engine.)

 

[SCguy]

I just recently bought some used trailing arms for my TR6. Should I just finger tight the new studs with a little Locktight?

 

[RonMacPherson]

When the threads are clean, full depth, yes. I recommend at the least blue, possibly red if you plan on never removing them again.

 

[Aeroken]

A somewhat related (trailing arm) stud question - When I disassembled my rear suspension, some of the trailing arm studs came out with the nuts but most did not. The ones that stayed in seem pretty secure and I have no reason to be suspicious of them. I have all new replacement studs, but should I just replace the ones that came out or should I remove and replace all of them?

Ken

 

[Bugeye58]

Depends on your comfort level with the old studs, Ken.
Were it mine, I'd replace them all. Then you are working with a known quantity.
"Better with a devil you know................"
Jeff

 

[TR3driver]

OTOH, if it ain't broke ...

 

[Scott_Hower]

"Better with a devil you know................"
Jeff

... and on your own terms. I replace the batteries in my daily drivers every 5 years regardless of how they seem to be working. Guess who's mobile is going to ring when SWMBO's X5 refuses to start. /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/devilgrin.gif