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TR4/4A Stuck clutch, again

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Rut

Rut

Obi Wan
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Well, Desert TR (66 TR4a) is running like a top, but the clutch is stuck for the 3rd time in 3+ years. Previously I’ve been able to break it free using the start in gear and extend the slave pushrod, but not this time. I’ve started it in 1st and reverse and hit the brakes hard once driving, but no joy. I’m doing this by myself, so the drop off the jack method is out. Any recommendations?
Thanks, Rut
 
Did you get the engine up to operating temp before trying the "rolling brake with clutch in"? May take a couple more tries. Brutal on the driveline though it has always worked for us..
 
Dr, the engine was not up to temp, just to the point of running without the choke. I’ll give it another try with a warm engine. I did adjust the slave rod all the way out to put more pressure on it and I have great movement.
Rut
 
Cranked the car and it’s running great…really smooth. Let it run to get up to temp and as the gauge approaches normal temp the gauge pegs out. I turned it off and it diesels a bit and heard the radiator cap release some pressure to the overflow. I’m letting it cool (still have a box fan going) and I’ll check the timing, cooling system has fresh antifreeze so I think it’s good, fan belts are tight. Never seen it do this, a slow creep, but never a quick rise.
Rut
 
Faulty thermostat, most likely.
 
Timing was advanced 20*+ and it still runs warmer than I would like, but not hot. When I rev it to 2000-2500 it starts to cool down to normal, but hotter at idle. I bet it has a 190* thermostat. It sure seems like a shroud on the fan side would help a lot! I called a buddy and hope to work on getting the clutch unstuck sometime today now that the temp is relatively normal. If Drs method doesn’t work I’ll be back for more advice.
Thanks, Rut
 
I have found that (engine not running) pushing down the pedal and letting it snap up so the pp slams the disc helps. Also, driving it (obviously in gear) with the clutch pedal depressed while blipping the throttle works.
Bob
 
Thanks for all the suggestions and the good Dr came thru. Engine warm, start the car in first gear and head down the road, slam on the brakes and I now have a working clutch! Now to start putting everything in order from steering (notchy), suspension (loose) and brakes (not much there). It’s all the usual after restoration sorting that Jim was planning on doing before his untimely death.
Thanks again, Rut
 
Pleased I could help! It's worked on about every rusted clutch encountered, from those brought into our shop on a hook to my own Elan once. As stated before, it's H-E double-ell on drive-line components but it beats having to pull the engine/trans!
 
CJD said:
Curious, Rut...where do you live that is humid enough to stick your clutch so often?
Click to expand...
John,
Funny you should ask and I live in Alabama…we have a pretty humid climate, but the car lives in a climate controlled shop. Rust has not been a problem on any of the bare metal cars undergoing restoration, but this Arizona car likes to stick its clutch!
Rut
 
Making me wonder if it might be a good idea to slip the clutch a bit, warm it up, to drive off any moisture that might be there just before storing the car. What think ?
 
Interesting. I grew up in New Orleans, that was also very humid. A thought...I remember when my Dad installed AC in his shop, every time we opened the door on warm humid days, all the steel tools would get a layer of condensation. I wonder if your climate control has changed the problem from humidity to condensation?
 
CJD said:
Interesting. I grew up in New Orleans, that was also very humid. A thought...I remember when my Dad installed AC in his shop, every time we opened the door on warm humid days, all the steel tools would get a layer of condensation. I wonder if your climate control has changed the problem from humidity to condensation?
Click to expand...
I’ve never seen condensation in the shop and the RH stays around 50-55%. Lots of bare metal in the shop and rust is a very infrequent visitor, but anything is possible. When the shop was built I had 6” of foam insulation in the walls and roof, insulated doors and windows and an insulated double garage door. The temperature is very consistent unless I open the garage door for an extended period and the cost to heat and cool both the shop (1200 sq ft) and house (5000 sq ft) averages about $100/mo. I’m going to put the car on the lift as soon as I take the Scout to the painter (it’s on a rotisserie in the lift bay) which should be next week, but I keep ‘finding’ things to do to the tub. For some strange reason I decided to fill most of the holes in the firewall and there must be a zillion of them.
Rut
 
I'm also in Ala. I have one TR6 that every spring I have to unstick the clutch. I do the same, crank car, let it run until warm, postion it so I can crank in gear, usually second gear, and head out. We have a gravel driveway so I don't try anything until I get on the pavement. I don't use the brake but will have the clutch depressed and push the gas pedal hard a couple of times. Clutch usually brakes loose by second try.
 
Some follow up on this: Where in Arizona did you get a '66 TR4A? That's the year and model I drive out here in Az. Also, what to you mean by starting "in first gear"? You mean engaged or with the pedal depressed? Not sure how you could start with the transmission engaged in first. Finally, just curious what a stuck clutch feels like. Sounds serious and precarious enough I'd like to be ready if it ever happens to me, though we certainly have no humidity or rust around this place. Thx
 
I misspoke since Jim lived in Albuquerque, NM. The advice I received was to warm up the engine in neutral, once warm put it in first or second gear and start the car. Once moving you hold the clutch pedal in and hit the brakes, hard. Worked like a charm. A stuck clutch feels normal until you try to put the car in gear and that’s when it just grinds.
Rut
 
My TR250 has started to do that, not last winter, but I think the two before that. Not sure why just the last few years and never before that. I have been able to free it up by starting in gear with the brakes on. Don't have an answer as to why or how to stop it. Starting the car every few weeks would probably help if you have easy access to it
 
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