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TR6 Stuck again with the floorboards for a tr6

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J

jackag91

Jedi Warrior
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Turning back for more help.

Before I start welding on the floor boards I have a few more questions.

I removed the braces that I had in one of the doorways and now that I have mounted the door I have a very noticible gap at the top (1/2 in). I know the doors have a gap when they are empty.

Do I need to worry about this when I start attaching the floorboards or should I get the boards on and use the triangle piece to get the right angle?

Also, on the side that I haven't started working on, I am measuring right at 24 inches between the two lips that the outer rocker panel fits in. (I want to say between the A-pillar (?)and the b-post) How close is this?

THanks for all of the help.
Jack
 
jackag91 said:
I removed the braces that I had in one of the doorways and now that I have mounted the door I have a very noticeable gap at the top (1/2 in). I know the doors have a gap when they are empty.

Do I need to worry about this when I start attaching the floorboards or should I get the boards on and use the triangle piece to get the right angle?
Click to expand...

Hi Jack - I have not personally done this yet so I'd make sure to get lots of other opinions but I would think you want everything lined up / remain braced before the floors where welded in.

Again, I'd get other opinions...
 
its pretty easy, on mine i put the floor in and then when it came time to start on the rocker panels thats when i started worrying about the door gap, the body is so flexible that it will move all over so dont worry about it too much until you are ready for the rockers. i used a ratchet belt and a floor jack to move the a and b posts into place and hold them there while i welded them to the rocker assemblies and the door was in place so i could see the gap and adjust accordingly. just take your time and dont be afraid to really twist the body a bit while lining it all up. there is no real elegant way of doing it and in fact when i was adjusting the a post i remember setting the gaps a bit out so when i removed the jack and everything settled it would be right were i wanted. came out great for me.
Randy
 
Could the frame flex be avoided by welding bracing in before removing the old floor?

...I am getting ready to replace floors myself, and appreciate these conversations!
 
If the doors fit good before you take everything apart, then bracing beforehand will definetly help. I braced my TR3 before I removed the floors, and worked one side at a time. Besides bracing across the A & B posts, I ran another brace between the braces spanning the door gaps. I placed the cross brace in the middle of the cockpit, and am able to lift the whole body by that brace...an added benefit. I used heavy 1 1/2" square tubing for the door braces with brackets welded on to bolt to the body. The welded on cross brace is 2" (1/4" thick) angle iron. Probably overkill, but nothing has moved in the two years I been messing with this. The body has been on and off a gazillion times!

Edit: Here's a pic...
 
Nice pictures - good idea on the lift point.

I am surprised, seeing various photos of bracing that none of the bracing is covered with foam... For a clumsy guy like me, I will constantly be bopping my head against the bracing, and plan to use a little foam pipe insulation! /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/wall.gif
 
thanks for all of the help.

I thought I had braced it, but I didn't think about taking it off while I was working on it. Live and learn, I guess.

THe passenger floor has taken me about 10 days of work and I am not done yet. But at least I know the drivers side will take a lot less time, now that I know the mistakes.
 
Ok, I think I have everything where it needs to be, with the exception of one corner. The b-post and the sills aren't going together like I would like.

If you look at this picture you should be able to see where they are hitting and it is keeping the floor from moving up about an 1/8th to 1/4 in.

(Sorry about the bad pictures but I only have my cell phone's camera to work with.)

Any suggestions on how to get it to move in there?

Jack

rockerandsill.jpg
 
I am not sure what I am looking at or for. While I did not need to replace the inner sill, I did replace a rocker panel. To get it to fit took a lot, and I mean a lot of working and shaping the outer rocker. If you have to force the panel in, it is not ready.

If I were in your position, I would fit the floor and inner sill and tack them in place. Then work on getting the rocker to fit properly. To do this will take some dolly and hammer, and torch work. If your rocker is like mine, just think of it as a guide, not as a perfect fit, then work it until it is.

To facilitate fitting the rocker, I removed the door glass, and fit the door. As I worked the rocker, I frequently put on and took off the fenders, as well as body shims.

I know I used the word work a lot, but that is what I found was needed. Just go slow, in the end it will all come together.

Hope this helped.
 
What I found was a big help in getting large panels set into position was to use a couple of sheet metal screws. If you use the kind with the little 'drill' on the end, an electric drill with a driver bit works really slick. If you have to adjust things, you can easily remove a screw or two, re-adjust, and rescrew. Once all is set, weld it up. Then you can remove the screws, and weld the holes shut.

Unfortunatly, I can't tell anything from that picture.
 
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