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TR6 stuck again - ignition switch removal on a tr6
- Thread starter jackag91
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DNK said:
Those are anti-theft nuts holding on there. I guess I was "lucky" in replacing my switch; someone had been in there before....
Do you need to actually remove the switch? The electrical (back) part of the switch can be removed, w/o removing the whole assembly. There's a very small screw holding the back part on; Just so you know...
roofman
Jedi Knight
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No there isn't. What I did was use a dremel tool with a cut off bit and cut a line across the top of the 2 bolts to make them into a screw. go deep enough to be able to use a stubby standard screwdriver. Do not worry about the surrounding assembly as you will have to cut the line with the dremel across one side of it. You can easily do this through the holes in the dash once the speedo and tach are removed.
Tim Tucker
Jedi Trainee
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The RED wires bundled together in the picture. What are they? I have them as well as green in the cockpit and a bundle of five at the front of the engine compartment. Each bundle has 5 wires. Red, Green, and Black.
TIA
Tim
TIA
Tim
TR3driver
Great Pumpkin - R.I.P
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I see red with white wires in the photo, which would be the wires to the instrument/dash illumination (controlled by the dimmer).
Solid green would be fused ignition power to heater, brake lights, turn signals, gauges and wipers.
Black are grounds from various things (the union isn't shown on my TR6 diagram, but on my Stag there is a big bundle of them coming off the dash and going to one terminal on the firewall/bulkhead).
If wiring is a mystery to you, you should get a copy of Dan Master's book
https://members.aol.com/danmas6/
Wonderful explanations and step-by-step troubleshooting; plus accurate wiring diagrams for each year of TR6. None of the usual books are quite right for US-spec TR6, Dan's diagrams are the best I know of. The diagrams themselves can also be downloaded from
https://www.advanceautowire.com/schematics.htm
Solid green would be fused ignition power to heater, brake lights, turn signals, gauges and wipers.
Black are grounds from various things (the union isn't shown on my TR6 diagram, but on my Stag there is a big bundle of them coming off the dash and going to one terminal on the firewall/bulkhead).
If wiring is a mystery to you, you should get a copy of Dan Master's book
https://members.aol.com/danmas6/
Wonderful explanations and step-by-step troubleshooting; plus accurate wiring diagrams for each year of TR6. None of the usual books are quite right for US-spec TR6, Dan's diagrams are the best I know of. The diagrams themselves can also be downloaded from
https://www.advanceautowire.com/schematics.htm
Tim Tucker
Jedi Trainee
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Randall,
Thanks for the reply. The r/w wires are of a much heavier guage than the r/w that feed my instrument illumination lamps. There is one of the five that is bigger than the other four. The pattern is repeated in the red,green, and black bundle. Each bundle is terminated with what appears to be heatshrink. I have Dan's schematic..I have a '71 electrical.
Perhaps the original poster can see if he has a set of green and black where I do (since we know the red/white is present)?
TIA
Tim
Thanks for the reply. The r/w wires are of a much heavier guage than the r/w that feed my instrument illumination lamps. There is one of the five that is bigger than the other four. The pattern is repeated in the red,green, and black bundle. Each bundle is terminated with what appears to be heatshrink. I have Dan's schematic..I have a '71 electrical.
Perhaps the original poster can see if he has a set of green and black where I do (since we know the red/white is present)?
TIA
Tim
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Here's what I did, when reassembling my ignition assembly:
I used hex bolts here, as I found a regular bolt would foul on reassembly. The first time I did this, I assembled it all from underneath the dash, without taking out the speedo and tach. It was the first thing I had to fix on the six, and didn't know enough to remove the big gauges. Ugh, what an awful job; this way is much easier. Anyway, just one way to reassemble.
I used hex bolts here, as I found a regular bolt would foul on reassembly. The first time I did this, I assembled it all from underneath the dash, without taking out the speedo and tach. It was the first thing I had to fix on the six, and didn't know enough to remove the big gauges. Ugh, what an awful job; this way is much easier. Anyway, just one way to reassemble.
I pulled the steering column and the steel dash frame as a unit this morning. I had started that direction because it seemed easier that trying to deal with the security bolts. Everything thing was coming out anyway. Managed to accomplish it and then found the DPO had done repairs in that area and installed new security bolts only hand tight and had not snapped off the head of the bolts.
I like Kevin’s hex head bolts as an alternative even now that I find I have a good as new security bolts to install, just don’t want to deal with them later when hopefully everything is not coming back out.
Also found that the lower strap piece is gone and DPO had replaced it with some sheet metal with a curve cut into it fitting around the column. 1.5 inch rubber hose had been used a bushing at firewall and under the makeshift strap.
Do not see the strap as available from primary suppliers.
This afternoon, I pulled the windshield wiper boxes and tubes as the LAST BITS that were still attached to the body, with the exception of the doors, which I have left to help keep things aligned. Been stripping paint as I went, only one inside floor pan, interior firewall and underbelly left to strip to bare metal.
I like Kevin’s hex head bolts as an alternative even now that I find I have a good as new security bolts to install, just don’t want to deal with them later when hopefully everything is not coming back out.
Also found that the lower strap piece is gone and DPO had replaced it with some sheet metal with a curve cut into it fitting around the column. 1.5 inch rubber hose had been used a bushing at firewall and under the makeshift strap.
Do not see the strap as available from primary suppliers.
This afternoon, I pulled the windshield wiper boxes and tubes as the LAST BITS that were still attached to the body, with the exception of the doors, which I have left to help keep things aligned. Been stripping paint as I went, only one inside floor pan, interior firewall and underbelly left to strip to bare metal.
