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Stripped threads in oil pan front saddle block

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davidk

davidk

Jedi Trainee
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The last time I put the drain pan back on the TR-6, one of the front bolt holes in the aluminum saddle block was stripped. I took the split washer off and was able to get it to grab enough threads to stay in.

With the pan now off again, I didn't want to risk the bolt coming out. I also didn't want to have to remove the timing cover and replace the saddle block (although I do have the steel replacement on the shelf).

So, I decided to redrill the hole and tap it out (to 3/8-24) with the saddle block in place. It went surprisingly well. I put blue tape above the hole to try to catch filings, and masked everything off to help contain filings.

The front crossmember is almost in the way. I was able to get a straight shot to drill with an older, smaller drill. If I was doing it again, I would get a 12" drill bit. I also used a 'bottoming' tap to be sure I got threads all the way thru since there's a main journal bolt just above this hole.

I also had to drill out the hole in the oil pan to a larger size, and grind down a bolt to the correct length.

Obviously the best thing to do is remove and replace, but this method seemed to work pretty well. It's kind of hard to tell from the photo, but the newly tapped hole is on the right.

DSC_0128.jpg
 
It is almost easiest to install a new block. A heli coil is difficult, as you are drilling and tapping and trying to keep everything in line and square while presumably working under the car. If you remove the piece, you might as well replace with new.
Somebody is producing an upgraded unit that someone else can surely help you on.
 
that'll work.

you could also install a helicoil and use a standard size bolt.
 
Good rigging! Amazing what you can do when you think outside the box. Thanks for the pics.

Tinkerman
 
Looks good. I put ez-loks in all four of the threaded holes on mine when the engine was apart. Just had to be real careful drilling. don't over tighten when you put it back together.
 
Sorry. Didn't read the whole thing last night. Your fix looks great.
Aluminum can be a real bear sometimes.
 
Thanks Bob. I've got one. I didn't want to have to pull off the front pieces to change it out.
 
David,

I just installed Marc's steel saddleblock without taking the front cover off... I just took my time and cleaned very thing and was able to loosen the front bolts enough to pull the old unit out. I did have a sacrifice a gasket for the job, and used LOTS of black gasket goo. It's been 3 months with no leaks... so i guess I'd say it was successful. Time will tell.

-S
 
What a fantastic pictorial put up by BobbyD about the engine rebuild. Never seen anything like it. Also contains very helpfull information. I just started on this forum and I'm always impressed with what I find. I was thinking about purchasing the saddleblock for my leaky engine, I will for sure now. Again thanks a ton.
 
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