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TR2/3/3A Sticking Clutch

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Tom B

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TR3 has sat for a while and clutch was stuck. Rebuilt clutch master, new clutch slave, new hose, springs, etc.
Started car in gear and clutch freed right up.
Now if car sits for more than 5 minutes no gears can be engaged.
If the engine is shut off, trans put in gear, and then cranked, the clutch frees and works perfectly. Shifts smooth and quiet for as long as you drive it.
Shut it off, wait a few minutes, and stuck again.
Bled and re-bled.
Help, please.
 
I'm certainly no guru on it but my first thought is a sticky throw out bearing and when the main shaft starts turning it frees it..in any case judging by what you've tried, sounds as though you're gonna have to pull the transmission and check the pressure plate, throw out bearing or even the infamous broken fork pin syndrome..
 
After you get it loose, try sliding your foot off the depressed pedal to allow the system to slam as it engages. Also, try driving it a while with frequent shifts.
Bob
 
bobhustead said:
After you get it loose, try sliding your foot off the depressed pedal to allow the system to slam as it engages. Also, try driving it a while with frequent shifts.
Bob
Click to expand...

I will definitely try this tomorrow.
This afternoon I bled the clutch slave cylinder by removing the rod and actuating the piston with a screwdriver. Had no effect, clutch would not release.
What I did notice about the new repro slave cylinder was a film of rusty brake fluid around the end of the piston. Also when the piston is pushed in, it takes about 4 or 5 seconds for it to return.
When I rebuilt the master cylinders, the pistons returned immediately after being retracted and released. Is the slow return normal for the clutch slave?
 
I'm hesitant to throw something out there for fear of being wrong, but I had a similar experience with mine when I first got it up and running. The clutch disc was contaminated with grease or oil which was sticky. As long as I was driving it was "OK' because the grease would stay hot and break down. When I would put it away the contamination would solidify again and cause the clutch to stick again. Sometimes even after driving some distance without using the clutch it would cool enough to stick. I drove for a while and let the clutch slip by partially depressing the pedal which improved it some. I think this is kind of the same remedy Bob is referring to by "shifting a lot". If the grease is not too soaked into the clutch lining it may eventually wear off. I ended up taking the clutch disc out and replacing it and just cleaning the flywheel and pressure plate as they were not damaged. Been working fine for 4 years now. I'm not sure I understand about the slave piston travel so I'll avoid commenting on that part.
 
Your description doesn't strike as a cylinder issue. You should be able to tell if the pedal is high and firm and does not bleed down when depressed for a couple minutes. You should feel hydraulic pressure against the pedal a short distance from the top and when you hold the pedal down for a time, release it, and immediately depress again, the resistance point should be in the same place.
Bob
 
Friction disc contamination is a plausible explanation of the symptoms. Pulling the transmission is the only way to be sure.

If it is contamination cleaning the disc is usually not very successful. Replacing the disc is the way to go.

If it is contamination it may be worth considering surfacing the flywheel and a rebuilt/new pressure plate.

David
 
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