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Stereo in the bugeye

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bugedd

bugedd

Jedi Knight
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I have a leftover head unit out of a car I sold, a nice cd player with detachable face. I was thinking of putting it in the bugeye, with it powering maybe a couple 6x9's behind the seat. The car has the original generator systyem, rebuilt and in good shape. Will that be sufficient for this application?
On the same note, I am trying to figure out where to mount the head unit thats perhaps somewhere other than in the dash. Mainly for security reasons. Any pics of what you have done would be greatly appreciated!
 
I have a CD player in a later Midget radio console in my Bugeye.
I never could figure out how to post pictures here so
https://s445.photobucket.com/albums/qq179/spritenut/
Look for the picture titled "Too many gauges", you can see the console but the radio is hard to see in the picture.
I have 2 6x9s mounted on a sub floor made out of plywood and covered in carpet, it sits on the curved frame rails behind the seat on the back shelf, this smoothed out the back shelf and made a nice place for flush mounted speakers.
I also have an 8 track player in my 67 Sprite with the same rear speaker set up.
My daughter but a pair of 6x9s in speaker boxes wedged in the boot of her Bugeye but they did put a dimple in the outside of the body work when she took a spirited drive. I did warn her but she drives just like her father :wink:

<span style="font-style: italic">Picture (below) that spritenut is referring to (aeronca65t-modertator)</span>
April2010045.jpg
 
The current used by a car stereo is calculated by dividing its wattage by 12, which is the standard voltage for cars. This calculation is called Ohm's Law. For example, if a stereo is rated for 50 watts, it uses 4.666 amps of current. A good average battery has about 550 amp hrs of power. So you could run your radio just off the battery for about 120 hours straight and still have juice left in your battery. While the engine is running the generator will resupply the battery with lost amps.
 
JohnnyO said:
While the engine is running the generator will resupply the battery with lost amps.
Click to expand...
If the stereo uses 4.7 amps, you must also be aware that the original generator puts out 22 amps when the engine is above 1800 rpm if working properly. The ignition system takes about 5 amps. If you're using lights, wipers, heater fan you're running close to maximum. If halogen headlights, you're beyond maximum. If you start discharging while driving, you won't go too far.
 
Had a loud stereo in Bugsy for a year until I realized I couldn't hear it that well over the motor most of the time. I mounted the head unit in a plywood bulkhead that closes off the boot. I took it out after LottO. The best tune comes from the turbo's throat resonating in a 2" pipe.

Glen
 
Mmmmmm....gauge porn. Looks like every 2" Smiths ever made! A vacuum <span style="font-style: italic">and </span>a fuel consumption gauge?! :laugh: I love it.

All you need is the Oil Check gauge. Any plans for it?
 
If it's really a 50-watt stereo, the maximum current drain will be at least double that calculation. The 50 watts is supposed to be audio output power, not dc input. Of course, it doesn't drawn the maximum continuously, so it's a little hard to say what it will be on the average; depends a lot on how high you turn up the volume. Of course, it's hard to tell what the real output power is, because audio equipment is rated in units known as "liar's watts."

Keep in mind that the battery provides current when the demand exceeds that of the generator. The real problem is not the radio by itself, but the load when lights and accessories are all on--then you'll easily exceed the generator output capability (about 20-25 amps) and you'll be draining the battery. You can do that a few hours if the battery is well charged, but not forever.

In any case, the power levels of car audio these days are just lunatic. You need only a couple watts to light up any reasonable set of speakers. I don't have a radio in my Bugeye, but I have a 60s-era Blaupunkt Frankfurt solid-state radio in my Porsche, driving a single 10x4 speaker. It probably doesn't put out more than a watt, and it's plenty loud. It uses less than an amp at normal volume levels. It also has an auxiliary input, which can be used for a tape or iPod. I think something like this makes a lot of sense for a Bugeye.
 
bthompson said:
Mmmmmm....gauge porn. Looks like every 2" Smiths ever made! A vacuum <span style="font-style: italic">and </span>a fuel consumption gauge?! :laugh: I love it.

All you need is the Oil Check gauge. Any plans for it?
Click to expand...

I do have the Smiths oil check gauge but no plans to install it yet.
I also have a Smiths altimeter but that might be a bit over the top.
I do have one of only 3 in the world Lucas smoke check gauges, those who have seen it can tell you it works and makes sure there is still smoke in the harness. :smile:
 
Spritenut your dash looks awesome!


I'm my sprite mk1 I plan on just using a couple smaller speakers where i can hide them and use one of those new "non cd" stereos and fit it in the "boot area" wire it to a on/off flip switch and hide a aux cable under the rug alongside the transmission tunnel and have it come out in one of the saddlebags I'll fit in front of the gearstick.. That way I can alter the volume straight on the smartphone/mp3, easily update playlist and just remove it when leaving the car. And would never have to fiddle with the stereo in the back!
 
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