TR2/3/3A Steering

[Skidude]

Had my steering box rebuilt. Back in the car - very difficult to turn at a stop, very tight on left hand turns and very loose on right hand turns.

What is out of adjustment - needs replaced?

 

[bobhustead]

The only setting on the box is the pressure applied by the little slotted screw and lock nut on top. That was certainly adjusted by the rebuilder. It would likely cause only sloppy steering in both directions (too loose) or excess effort when passing center (too tight). Steering effort with these boxes when standing is how they work. Don't turn them without some vehicle motion as it will hasten when you need another rebuild. Sounds like a steering geometry problem and any of the bushings, trunnions, vertical links could be the culprit. When I first got my car and correctly adjusted the toe in the car started going all over the road. Someone had set toe in to hide the effect of several worn front suspension and steering link components.
Bob

 

[CJD]

At a stop the TR steering is a bear. It should get pretty easy as you move the car, though. I would make sure you have the box topped up with a good gear oil.

 

[sp53]

Yes for sure check the fluid. I fill them at the hole on the column not the box top, so the oil gets to the top bearing.

Could be a lot of things from too much toe in or too much toe out. If the alignment and air pressure is good, I would check the silentbloc blocks and idler arm. Make sure the idler arm takes grease. You might have to take the zerk out of the idler arm and clean it.

The upgrade to the nylon bushing in silentblocs helps a lot with steering from a stop.

steve

 

[bobhustead]

The harder the front tires, the easier it is to turn them. I keep my fronts at 28 or 30, except when I want to go out and hang the rear end out on some turns and need traction on the fronts. 30 is probably high enough to wear the centers of the tires excessively, but most of us don't put enough miles on to be concerned about that.
Bob