Steering wheel slack / movement

[Leo_Speichinger]

I have about an inch of movement in the steering wheel (side to side) before anything is affected turning wise. All of the suspenion, tie rods, etc are brand new. I am pretty certain it is in the steering box. Is there a way to adjust it out? If not are the steering gear boxes different for each model? I have another steering box in the parts that came with the car (came with an accumulation of parts aquired over the prior owners work on all models of big healeys) but I am not sure it is the correct one for my car. How hard are they to rebuild if it needs to be done? Looks like quite a job due to the steering shaft being integrated into the box. Bet it is a joy to remove

Leo

 

[John Turney]

Yes, there is an adjustment on the top of the steering gear. There are instructions in the manual, but it is easier if you put 2" blocks of wood under the upper A-arms and raise the front wheels off the ground. You can then adjust the steering box and easily check the play. You can get it too tight so that it sticks in the middle as the worm is machined with a smaller clearance in the center.

If you can't get a satisfactory adjustment, the box is rebuildable, and you have to remove everything so it can come out the grill opening. The boxes are different with a change in ratio in the middle of the run of BN4s. If the only problem is wear on the peg, it can be rotated 90 deg instead of replacing.

 

[Keoke]

What car's steering box are you reffering to they are not all the same.????

 

[Leo_Speichinger]

There was another steering box that was in with parts that came with my car. Not sure if is the same ratio but the outside and everything "looks" the same. I tried the screw on top of the box and it actually makes it to where the wheel has a "sticking" point. John refered to it in his comment "You can get it too tight so that it sticks in the middle as the worm is machined with a smaller clearance in the center". Located the play on the currently installed one. It has some movement in the shaft that the steering arm attaches to (it is like tge bushing the shaft goes through is worn minutely), but enough to allow the wheel slack. Super small amount but it is there and I presume that is where the play is coming from. It isnt possible to raise the car up high enough to take it out from the bottom of the front end? Is the steering shaft length the main issue hence you hace to remove the box to come straight out?

Thanks
Leo

 

[Keoke]

Super small amount but it is there and I presume that is where the play is coming from.
NO there are shims and bearings that control vertical movement


It isnt possible to raise the car up high enough to take it out from the bottom of the front end?-
-That is true you remove the grill and sneak the steering assembly out the front alongside the radiator.

Is the steering shaft length the main issue hence you hace to remove the box to come straight out?--Yep.

We still want to know what car you are working on>????

 

[steveg]

Yes, there is an adjustment on the top of the steering gear. There are instructions in the manual, but it is easier if you put 2" blocks of wood under the upper A-arms and raise the front wheels off the ground. You can then adjust the steering box and easily check the play. You can get it too tight so that it sticks in the middle as the worm is machined with a smaller clearance in the center.

If you can't get a satisfactory adjustment, the box is rebuildable, and you have to remove everything so it can come out the grill opening. The boxes are different with a change in ratio in the middle of the run of BN4s. If the only problem is wear on the peg, it can be rotated 90 deg instead of replacing.

I rebuilt mine several years ago and as I recall only the Denis Welch replacements are machined tighter in the center position. As I recall if you adjust it too tight in the center, it binds when the wheel is turned toward lock due to lack of wear on either side of center. So you have to adjust it at lock, then it'll be loose in the center due to center-position wear which can't be adjusted out.

When you have it jacked up with 2" blocks, suggest having the "Dreaded Assistant" move the wheel back and forth and observing if there's any side-to-side movement where the arm meets the shaft. If so you'll need to replace the bushing.

As an aside - have a couple of friends who have or are installing the Welch units. They provide a superior steering experience. (no financial interest)

 

[bob hughes]

We still want to know what car you are working on>????

Keoke, I do not think that the car is so important as the type of steering box that is in it. Though it would also help of course in the case of a BN1 or 2.

As an example, I have a BJ7 with a flat topped box, it really should be the domed top box. !!!!



Bob

 

[Keoke]

HI Bob: That is true. However, there is a difference between the BJ8 type box and the earlier fixed pin type . In the fixed pin version you may rotate the pin to eliminate slop ,while the BJ type box may require a new pin and bearings. Similarly, the center position of the steering box is determined by a tight spot in the gearing.

 

[Leo_Speichinger]

Sorry I forgot... the car is a 1966 BJ8
The box in the car has a nut locked screw on top that sets off center of the box (driverd dide) as does the box that was included in all of the parts that came with the car. Who carries the parts to rebuild the box? I will try to post pictures of both boxes a little later today.

Thansk for the answers so far

Leo

 

[Keoke]

Who carries the parts to rebuild the box?
Sounds like that is the correct box for 1966 BJ8 and just about any of the usual sources for parts should be able to provide the parts.

A REBUILD MIGHT REQUIRE;
new upper and lower bearings
new pin and bearings,
new bushing
new seals.

 

[Patrick67BJ8]

Who carries the parts to rebuild the box?
Sounds like that is the correct box for 1966 BJ8 and just about any of the usual sources for parts should be able to provide the parts.

A REBUILD MIGHT REQUIRE;
new upper and lower bearings
new pin and bearings,
new bushing
new seals.

Speaking of seals, I installed the "two oil seal" replacements for the single original seal and my box has started leaking just sitting in the garage with zero miles on it!! This was done about a year ago. I don't think stacking of the two seals is an improvement or replacement for the original seal.

 

[BigGreen]

Perhaps check the olive
It breaks easy and starts to leak

 

[Keoke]

I don't think stacking of the two seals is an improvement or replacement for the original seal.

Hi Patric;
Here is another way to look at that repair. By using the two seals you avoid the worn spot on the drop shaft created by the old single seal.
I would just replace them and give the car a run around the block a couple of times a month.

 

[Lotuswins]

Hi Patrick,

I can empathize...I did a single seal, which leaked once I put the Penrite lube in, for 6 months while I finished the car's body work. Then once I started driving it, it stopped leaking. I guess it just needed to work in to eventually seal. I topped it up a few months ago, and still no leaks. Perhaps just waiting until you've driven it a while yours too will seal itself?

 

[steveg]

Speaking of seals, I installed the "two oil seal" replacements for the single original seal and my box has started leaking just sitting in the garage with zero miles on it!! This was done about a year ago. I don't think stacking of the two seals is an improvement or replacement for the original seal.

I did the two seal replacement, along with a new bushing and filling my late-style steering box with STP. That was several years ago and it works fine and hasn't leaked a drop. I did however start driving it immediately after filling the box.