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Tips
Tips

Steering Slack

Nunyas

Yoda
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My B has some slack in the steering, and I'm having troubles pinning it down to where the slack is originating. It's not much mind you, but it's enough to notice at the steering wheel (15" wheel). The steering wheel ~maybe~ turns 1/8", if even that much, before it catches. With the steering wheel turning so little before catching, I'm having a really difficult time detecting movement on the steering column (in the engine bay) and on the steering pinion rod. And a difficult time detecting any difference in movement between the two rods.

Do ya'll have any suggestions that may help me narrow down/find the source of this slack? I've been thinking about purchasing a new steering rack, but would prefer to not spend that money if it's not needed.
 
There is an adjustment on the rack for lag.
 
Umm.... on a B it's spring 'n shims.

Rob: Have a second set of hands (a possible 'co-worker' job?) jiggle the wheel (ign lock disengaged) thru the "slop" as you monitor the steering shaft, joints and rack & ball joints. You'll find whatever bits are causing it fairly quickly that way.

...'sides, don't one or two of 'em owe ya for ~something~??
 
Doc:

Our BE's have a special adjustment that we are not allowed to share with ya B guys. You guys might get jealous and want to buy up our beloved little creatures.

This would cause their price to rise, parts would cost more and we would just have to kiss their cute little smiley faces goodbye /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/frown.gif

Ohhhh I almost teared.

Pat

Time to go home and get me a beer /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/thirsty.gif
 
Yeah, it's just downright unfair. BMC went all 'cheap' on us!


...have one fer me. /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/cheers.gif
 
I had that problem untill I replaced the "U" joint! PJ
 
That li'l U-J is likely the culprit in Nunyas' case too.
 
I almost thought that was it the other day when I was examining it. However, I was checking it out a lone at the time and it's kind of difficult to have a hand on the steering wheel AND the UJ at the same time; especially with the hardtop on.

Maybe I'll be able to get one of my hung-over friends to help me with it this weekend.
 
Either the U joint or the rack is worn a bit. If you find that the U joint is good, remove the cover from the damper above where the pinion shaft enters and remove the thinnest shim under the cover (they may all stick to the cover) and see if that gets rid of the play.
Cheers,
 
Can you check the "U" in place or do you need to take it out? I guess if you take it out, might as well replace it.
 
Yup. If you have someone sit inna drivers' seat and "jiggle" the wheel thru the 'sloppy' area with yer hand onna U/J, you'll feel whether the joint is loose internally or not: both sides of the shaft should move in concert. If one moves and the other doesn't, the joint is FUBAR. It ain't an easy task to change that li'l sucka, BTW. 'specially in a later RB car.
 
yeah... I checked it while the exhaust manifold was still hot. I could feel the heat radiating from the manifold the entire time. I got a N.U.B. to jiggle the wheel for me, and I now think it's the U-J. It's difficult for me to tell, because the movement is so minute.

I've tried moving the wheel side to side and up and down, in case the slack was coming from the column bushings. I got no movement in that area. In rotations, as soon as you feel resistance in the wheel the rack-n-pinion rod begins turning. To feel any difference in the U-J area I had to jam my finger in between the upper rod knuckle and lower rod knuckle, and then feel for the slightest of pressure differences while the wheel was being turned. I.E. one direction the U-J should have been attempting to pinch my finger and the other way it should have been releasing my finger. It was a _very_ small difference in movement at the U-J halves, but it there is a difference, and while driving down the road it's enough to upset your trajectory when you hit a bump.
 
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