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Steering rack replacement help requested

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Sportsdoc

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I am trying to replace my 66 sprite steering rack. I have a brand new complete rack to install. There doesn't seem to be enough room to pull the old rack off due to a sheet metal component in front of the rack. Do I need to pull the steering column?

Thanks for the help.

The new components including new tie rod ends have no grease fittings. I suspect they are not necessary anymore with new components?
 
Are you trying to slide it out on the driver's side or passenger's side?
 
I haven't disconnected it yet from the steering column. The complete unit has the pinion connection and I am concerned when I loosen the rack there is not enough room in front to pull the whole rack off the pinion connector. If I can get that part off I can easily slide it out either side.
 
I'm not sure about a 66 either, but taking the steering column loose and pulling it up an inch should be no big deal. I always prefer to remove too many things to get clearance than take a chance on forcing things and breaking something.
 
Thanks, I think pulling the steering column out hopefully will pull it off the pinion and then I can replace the whole rack. We'll see what happens later today.
 
Remember that in order to disconnect the column, you need to remove the pinch bolt on the steering column. There is a notch in there the bolt goes through to keep the column from slipping out if you remove the nut. Also three bolts on the firewall and 3 bolts under the dash, one of which requires an extra body to hold a wrench on it from the engine compartment. When I pulled one of these on Saturday, I needed a BF Hammer and pry bar to drive the steering column off of the spline. BE sure to drive a screwdriver into the end of the pinch nut to spread the end of the column at the spline after you drive out the nut and before pounding with the BF Hammer.

Be sure to clean out all of the rack mounting holes with a bottoming tap. Lots of junk down there. I used a bicycle inner tube as a gasket glued to the rack mouning halves. I found without a gasketof some sort the bolts alone would not hold it securely in place. Do not overtorque. That is aluminum up there not steel you are bolting to. Be careful about shims and lubing hte rack with 90W oil. Pep Boys sells a adapter for marine inboard/outboard drives that attaches to a 90W Oil plastic bottle for filling.
 
""""""""The new components including new tie rod ends have no grease fittings. I suspect they are not necessary anymore with new components? """"""""""

The tie rod ends did not and will not have zirc fittings...they are sealed units.

The rack body itself has a plug, or rather a zirc fitting in lieu of a plug. I would make sure the rack is lubed B4 installation. Many will say (and the bmc shop manual sez to use) to use 90w hypoid oil but I prefer chassis grease. Using a zirc with a hand gun with the rack boots pulled away and not pumped full so as to have the grease run into the boots when tracking the rack is the best way.

A properly maintained rack should last almost forever. Using 90w and having the lube run out over time and not maintained, the rack will eat itself up.
 
Remember, I used cornhead grease. pumps like grease flows like oil. Google it.
 
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