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Steering Rack Lubricant

fad64b

Senior Member
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Can anyone tell what the proper lubricant for a TR7 steering rack is? I am rebuilding a rack with torn gators, lube to add and how much..
 
If it's the same as a 6 this out to start an argument.
 
Not sure why there would be an argument; my Haynes says to pack the ends of the rack & the inner tie rod ends with "general purpose" grease. Also "smear" the pinion shaft with grease when installing it. Factory workshap manual seems to agree.

After assembling, I assume you'd follow the old drill of removing the plug, screwing in a zerk and giving it 5 pumps from the grease gun. Then remove the zerk and put back the plug.
 
I had to replace the inner and outer tie rod ends on the 250 last year. As it turned out, it was cheaper (approx. $150)to buy the complete refurbished rack from CAR. They had used a light weight grease with what appeared to be a moly additive. I am sure that a call to TRF and chat with uncle Dave will result in the exact description.
 
Hey Randall,

I'm not an auto mechanic guy but when I replaced the
entire front suspension on my 69TR6 I packed the ends of the rack
& the inner tie rod ends with "general purpose" grease that had
moly-b added to it. As you stated I also "smeared" the pinion shaft
with the same grease. I did not do the zerk thing, since it was
not obvious to me.

PS: Them gaiters are right nasty beasts to get on- once they
have a bit of grease on them.

d
 
TR3driver said:
...After assembling, I assume you'd follow the old drill of removing the plug, screwing in a zerk and giving it 5 pumps from the grease gun. Then remove the zerk and put back the plug.

I do but I wonder why... that is, why not just leave the zerk on there? Is it because of the ground wire needing the plug to secure it properly?
 
I have the zerk permanantly installed ..no problem with ground wires.Good thing I took a pic.,noticed dust cover fell off on first pic .thanks Geo
When I grease the rack I wind wheels full lock right and give it a shot again half way to centre,another at centre another half to left side and another at full lock left.Spread it around.
 
Geo Hahn said:
that is, why not just leave the zerk on there? Is it because of the ground wire needing the plug to secure it properly?
That's the only reason I know of. The plug has straight threads, so bears on the connector for the ground wire; while the zerk has tapered threads so might or might not bite on the connector.
 
Randall correct me if i'm wrong but seems to me the plug is either 1/4 or 5/16 UNF.Zerks are available from 1/4 to 3/8 in unf thread.Don't remember making mods to the thread but it's been a long time ago that i put that fitting in.
memory and age....don't go together all that well
 
Hmmm, don't see the reply I sent from work, so I guess this time it won't be a duplicate ...

Grease zerks are available in lots of threads, but the two "standard" threads are either 1/4-28 tapered (a special "lubrication thread" according to the SAE) or 1/8 NPT. The 1/4-28 LT is designed to fit (and seal) into a hole tapped simply 1/4-28 UNF (which is not tapered), but since the zerk has a tapered thread it will only go in partway.

Or at least that's the way I understand it.

I doubt you had to modify the threads, Casey, just happened to have a zerk that would pull down against your ground lug. A lockwasher might have helped (and is a good idea anyway).
 
DNK said:
If it's the same as a 6 this out to start an argument.
Ah, I think I understand now ... perhaps you were thinking of trunnions? That's an old debate, but best saved for winter months when many folks can't drive their TRs methinks.
 
have never seen the little plastic covers. I guess most cars today dont even have grease fittings. are these covers something I should be using on the 3 and 250?
 
I was about to ask the same question about lubrication
because, in the TRF companion, pg 98, they recommend #90 gear oil, to slosh around and lube entire steering rack and pinion mechanism. Hence the clamps on the ends of the bellows. What do we think?

rob
 
Rob,
That's the reason I started this topic. When rebuilding a MGB steering rack it called for #90 gear oil. Now I am rebuilding a TR7 rack to install in my TR3, and want to be sure I use the correct lubricant.
 
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