• Hi Guest!
    You can help ensure that British Car Forum (BCF) continues to provide a great place to engage in the British car hobby! If you find BCF a beneficial community, please consider supporting our efforts with a subscription.
    There are some perks with a member upgrade!
    **Upgrade Now**
    (PS: Subscribers don't see this gawd-aweful banner
Tips
Tips

TR2/3/3A Steering Lock to Lock Measurement

Share this page

M

mastaphixa

Jedi Trainee
Country flag
Offline
I have just finished a complete steering system/front suspension rebuild including a new steering box worm gear courtesy of Macy's, new rocker shaft and bearing/seal, all new bushings, two new uprights, tr4 upper wishbones, lower outer trunions and upper ball joints, all new inner and outer links, teflon/stainless silent joints.

I have set the initial tie rod lengths to 7 11/16" (which is close to the book value of 7.68).

I am now trying to set my lock stops. I can't measure them per the manual, so I have them set up close to maximum thickness, but I get what appears to be symmetrical steering wheel movement from center.

My problem is the total lock to lock rotation of the steering wheel. I get something shy of 1 3/4 steering wheel rotation full lock to lock while the manual says I should get 2 1/2 from lock to lock.

What am I missing?

Steve Baker
 
It sounds like maybe a couple things coming into play.

First, your tie rods sound just a bit long, which will give you a toe out. Toe out will allow the wheel inside the turn to hit the stop early, thereby reducing the total steering travel. Set your wheel to center and sight along the front tires. Adjust the tie rods until both tires align with the rear tires. This will not be a final toe alignment, but will get you close enough to adjust the stops. Final alignment will need to wait until all components are back on the car, and you've at least driven it around the neighborhood to let the new suspension components settle in to their final location.

Next, you said you set the stops to their fatest. The way you set the stops is to loosen the cam stop bolts a bit and spin the stops so they do not contact at all. Then turn the wheel to the full right and you will find the right vertical link will contact another suspension component. It's been a while, so I forget what hits first. Anyway, now back off the steering angle just enough to get a clearance on the vertical link to where it hit...just .030" is enough. Finally, spin that cam stop to contact the vertical link and tighten the cam stop screw. Repeat the same process in the other steering direction.

The goal is to have the stop contact just short of the suspension hitting itself. Any amount of clearance is enough. I think if you address the above you will get your 2-1/2 turns back.
 
John,
Thank you. Well it doesn't seem like I've gone to far off the rails. Thanks for confirming that. Well, on this issue anyway!
Steve Baker
 
Tr3s have a symmetrical design like the human body, battery in the center, gas cap center, heater center… I find it important when installing tie rod ends to start with a total length of about 7- 3/8 (the number is in the Haynes, I think) inches center to center of the tie rod studs pointing straight up for each side; that should get you very close to alignment . I have seen one side at about 6 inches and the other side at about 9 inches on opposite sides. The car could be pointing straight, but out of balance on the tie rods. Not sure if that would effect what you are setting, but it seems to me it would.
steve
 
Back
Top