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Steering & Front suspension work - Grrrr

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GaryBeu

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OK...I'm in the process of ~trying~ to replace the tie rod ends. I've done everything except use a BFH because I don't want to bend/break the steering arm. Lots of people have suggestions but nothing is working. I'm still very open to listening. :smile:

Also, I bought all new bushings since ours are dry, worn, and broken. What do I do about that coil spring when I try to take the long bolt out of the A-arms to put in the new bushings??

I know...if I were any kind of mechanic, I'd already know all of this :eek:
 
I assume you are having trouble disconnecting the tie-rods from the spindle where they mate with the tapered hole. Easiest way is with a "pickle fork" which is a tapered wedge kind of thingamajig you drive between the tie rod joint. Lacking the right tool, I have seen "pros" split those joints by whacking the joint on one side with a serious hammer while holding a similar hammer on the reverse side. Never worked for me personally but I have seen it done and it's amazing.

You best chain the springs while they are compressed or you could do yourself serious damage pulling those long bolts out of the "A" frames while the springs are under compression. Better yet, compress the springs, with a spring compressor, before even starting on the bushing job. Bob
 
Pickle fork and a big hammer will take care of the tie rod ends. For the coil springs disconnect the sway bar links, the tie rod ends and the brake calipers. Use a floor jack and compress the suspension. If its the stock springs you may want to tie them down with chain but they should stay trapped by the suspension. Knock or cut the upper trunnion bolt out and release the floor jack. Swing out the swivel axle and with a bit of wiggling the stock spring will come out. If they are the lowered springs they will just fall out.
 
Pickle forks are ok if the tie rod ends are going to be trashed. You still usually have to smack the arm. I prefer this puller as no damage is done. Put it on, tighten it up, smack the end of the arm with a hammer and it will pop right off. Done it many times. PJ
 
Paul...what's it called and where do I find one?
 
Your local auto parts store or Sears should have something. Can't remember where I got mine. Not expensive

Called a Tie Rod End Puller or Tie Rod Separator.
 
Nuthin wrong with a pickle fork, my guess is under $10 at NAPA or some such parts house. SOMETIMES no matter how careful you are a pickle fork will damage the tie-rod boot. Since you are going to trash your old ones doesn't make any difference. Bob
 
Duh...who would have even THOUGHT to call it a tie rod end puller?? :eek:
 
GaryBeu said:
Paul...what's it called and where do I find one?
Click to expand...

Gary, Threr called tie rod pullers, amongst other things. The one I illustrated previously is more of a commercial type and costs around 50+ bucks, but there are various other types. Here are three more of many. Auto supply stores, Sears, Harbor Freight and others sell them. Expect to pay around $25.00 and up. PJ





 
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Paul...I got one of the kind like the top one in the above photo at Harbor Freight today. Gonna go out and try it in a few minutes. Thanks.
 
I changed my tie rod ends last year and I had the same problem as you. I did not have a ball joint splitter and I must have spent 2 hours banging the **** out of my tie rod end. I was eventually told about the two hammer method and within 2 minutes my tie rod end was off. I now own a ball joint splitter and have used it whilst rebushing my front suspension and no doubt I will use it many times more. It was a good investment and makes this job really simple.
 
Paul...the tool I bought from HB popped both tie-rod ends off in about 30 seconds!! Easiest thing I've ever seen. I'll probably never have to use it again...:rolleye:
 
GaryBeu said:
Paul...the tool I bought from HB popped both tie-rod ends off in about 30 seconds!! Easiest thing I've ever seen. I'll probably never have to use it again...:rolleye:
Click to expand...
Woohoo! :banana:

Every auto enthusiast pics up these sorts of tools -- may only need it every few years, but boy does it make the job at hand easier (or just plain doable). I've got one of these in my tool box as well, used for one project. Still glad to have it on hand.
 
If you have air, an air chisel with a punch installed instead of a chisel, can be used. Back off nut until it is even with thread top, take air chisel and pop side of arm where joint is and then tap nut and they usually come right off.
 
Well, here's an update on suspension work...FINALLY got back to it :smile:

I spent several hours trying all of the suggested ways to get the bolts out of the A-arms so I could replace the bushings. Of course, the lower bolt is ~one~with the spacer bushing :(. Nothing worked. I finally just put the floor jack under the inboard part of the spring pan, loosened the outboard sway bar nut and the other pan bolt, took out the inboard pan bolts, lowered the jack and the pan swiveled down so the spring was loose and came out. Took the sway bar bolt out of the pan, took off the upper A-arm nuts and lower nut, pulled the front A-arm off, pulled the rear A-arm off. Now I can work with this thing on the bench. Not a real bad job if you do it this way. The suggestions of a sawzall, etc. seem to be a real PITA compared to this way. Maybe I'm just lazy...:lol:
 
Any way ya skin that cat is a good one.

Very likely you will need replacement bolts for the lower kingpin pivot in any case, so whacking it off with a sawzall or grinder is expedient. Copious application of Weasel Pee to all joints being removed can help too.
 
Doc...The A-arm holes are pretty wallowed out so I ordered new ones along with bolts. I still haven't managed to get the bolt out of the shocks though. I've Weasel peed them several times but they won't budge yet.
 
I'm just finishing the front suspension on my TD. Amazing how similar it is to the MGA and MGB. Fortunately (I guess...) the thing was embalmed in old grease, so it came apart fairly easily. But, from other efforts, it's pretty clear to me that suspension parts can be difficult to get apart, perhaps more so than other components. You really need the right tools and a willingness to use appropriate force. You just need to know when it's appropriate, and how to apply it.
fsus_2925.jpg front_sus_3029.jpg
BTW I had the shocks restored by PeterC. If their operation is even a tenth as good as they look, I'll be thrilled.
 
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