Steering Column Wiring/Sealing

[bigarestorations]

Just installed the new wiring harness and the steering column in a complete frame off restoration of my 67 BJ8. There was nothing but wires from the column hanging out the end of the column when disassembling.
How are the wires to leave the column and yet seal the end of the column?
I see on Moss's diagram with a "nut and compression sleeve." I know what that is, but what am I missing here? You can't expect the sleeve to clamp down on wires and also seal the end of the column!
Thanks for any ideas on this issue!!

 

[Bob_Spidell]

The wires pass through a hollow tube called a stator in the center of the steering shaft and emerge from the front of the steering box. The stator, not the wires, are clamped and sealed with the compression nut and what's called an 'olive,' used in plumbing applications but this one should be split so as to clamp the stator properly (Moss, etc. sell them). An off-the-shelf olive may work, but I haven't tried it. The trafficator wiring connectors should be staggered else they're otherwise too big to be pulled through the stator. I wrap the ends with fine wire, then feed the wire through the stator and pull the wiring through.

Check the wheel end of your stator; there is a slot cut in it so the trafficator 'neck' on adjustable wheels can slide in and out without turning (the neck has a peg). As the slot is square cut, there's often cracking at the corners (it should have been radiused, but I don't think they ever were).

The position the stator is in when you tighten the nut determines the orientation of the trafficator; you'll want the turn signal lever at 12 o'clock. Leave a small gap between the trafficator and the steering wheel hub so the wheel hub doesn't drag the trafficator.

The stator is #23 in this diagram:

Steering Wheels, Control Heads

Steering Wheels, Control Heads

mossmotors.com