steering column coupling

[angelfj1]

I'm in the process of replacing the steering column bushes and flexible coupling. Just noticed a difference in my original flex (100,000 + miles)and the new one supplied by Moss. You will note in the photo that the new one has counter-sunk bolt clearance holes (on both sides), whereas the original has only a plain clearance holes. I checked on the Moss website and it appears that they sent me part no. 667-385, which uses a combination of hex head and socket head fasteners. They should have sent me part no. 667-390 which uses four hex head bolts. I'd like to get this project finished today. Is there a reason why I couldn't use four grade 8 hex head bolts even though this part is counter-bored?

Thanks

 

[TR4nut]

Frank-

Yes, I think your 250 bit is a holdover from the TR4 design. I'm fairly certain the hex bolts will be fine. I would think if there is a failure here, it won't be the bolts, it will be the old rubber.

Randy

 

[KVH]

I agree. I just replaced mine and noticed the same thing. I couldn't see how it would make any difference and just used the bolts they'd sent me.

 

[angelfj1]

thanks guys

you're the best!

 

[DNK]

Aw gee, s :blush: chucks

 

[martx-5]

Next thing you know, someone will be looking for a group hug... :laugh:

 

[DNK]

AH, ,I gotta go.
I think my mom's calling me!

 

[angelfj1]

Now, an UPDATE!!!

I reported previously, that I could not find torque values for the safety clamp bolts and grub screw in my Haynes manual. It seemed to me that this was critical.

However, after further research:

The Robert Bentley TR250/TR6 shop manual states the following:

" . . . .tighten both pinch bolt and the two bolts securing the safety clamp - torque 6 to 9 lb-ft."

" . . . .tighten the grub screw - torque 18 to 20 lb-ft and tighten the lock nut."

 

[DrEntropy]

Did ya use hex heads or cap screws on the joint, Frank?

Just curious, thinking of the "purchase" of the hex heads to the metal on the joint if it doesn't fit all the way into the recess, etc.

 

[BobbyD]

Frank........I ended up using hex bolts when I did my column. The only thing is you'll have to drill the holes for the safety wire. When it comes time to put it all together, I used a big hose clamp to pull it all into alignment. And don't forget the horn ground strap.

 

[DrEntropy]

Them hex heads look a LOT like cap screws to ME Bobby. :wink:

If Frank uses hex-heads, drilling grade-8 fasteners can be tricky. :shocked:


If you guys had GT-6's the hose clamp trick woulda been immediately apparent. It's a trick for the Rotoflex couplings, y'see. Same as the Elans. :laugh:

 

[martx-5]

Them hex heads look a LOT like cap screws to ME Bobby. :wink:

Officially, they are <span style="font-weight: bold">socket head </span>cap screws...as opposed to a <span style="font-weight: bold">hex head </span> cap screw...

 

[DrEntropy]

Geez, Art.

So <span style="font-weight: bold">SHOOT</span> ME!!! :smirk:

 

[angelfj1]

Doc, the coupling "kit" came with pre-drilled grade 5 hex head bolts. Do you believe that this is adequate?

 

[DrEntropy]

Yes, Frank. They will be more "compliant" than grade-8! The rubber will absorb any excess shock, so you're perfectly fine. Good contact at the heads, no stress risers I can see.

 

[angelfj1]

thanks doc!

 

[BobbyD]

So I can't type when I'm in a hurry...........geeze.... hex....allen.....octagon....fred....the picture tells it all. Bolts with the funny little cut out in the center that you use a thingie to tighten them with.

 

[DrEntropy]

Them's da ones. yup. :laugh: