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Steering Box Rebuild questions

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christophe

Jedi Trainee
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The steering box in our 1960 Austin Healey was trashed from the upper bearing coming apart. I have a new column and cam on order from Denis Welch. I still need all the bearings and gaskets.

Question 1: Should i just send the box and column off to someone to be properly set up? The bronze bushings appear to be ok, so if i rebuild it myself, i don't plan on messing with them. However, some might argue that i need new ones set up to match the new column and cam...thughts?


Question 2: Can i simply tap the long column portion out of the back of the steering box?


Question 3:(if i dont send the box off) does anybody offer a rebuild kit or must I purchase all bearings, seats, seals, and gaskets individually?

Question 4: If i do send the box off with the shiny new Denis Welch column and cam, who should i send it to? I am on the East coast, if that matters. Id like someone trustworthy that wont snatch the expensive new column and install a used unit. I had to say that, but these are the times we live in an I have been hosed many time before whilst playing the automotive restoration game.
Thanks
 
Ssend the box off with the shiny new Denis Welch column and cam, to;

Healey Surgeons
 
Should I remove the column tube from the box first for shipping reasons?

Have you used Healey Surgeons before? On his website it says $270.00 to push out old bushings and ream out new, but it doesnt mention bearings. if that's all i get for 270.00, then i think ill pass.
 
christophe said:
Should I remove the column tube from the box first for shipping reasons?

Have you used Healey Surgeons before? On his website it says $270.00 to push out old bushings and ream out new, but it doesnt mention bearings. if that's all i get for 270.00, then i think ill pass.
Click to expand...
Call them and they will tell you what to remove from your box, if anything, and what they'll do for $270.00.
 
I've overhauled the steering myself and the most difficult part is r & r'ing the unit in/out of the car.
The factory manual explains everything.
With the unit on the bench:
Q1: imho you should at least attempt to fit the new stuff in place before sending it out. You may find that the lower bush is OK.
Q2: the column with worm comes out the front after you remove the rocker shaft and the front plate with stator tube, olive, shims gaskets etc.
Q3: inspect the bearings and cups to see if they're shot or not. Moss has replacements (sold separately) but they're not cheap.

Your DW rocker shaft may not fit in the old bush. I was able to remove the old bush on the bench by hacksawing through it. The new one tapped in OK after I stuck it in the freezer for a while. Once in, I used a brand-new brake hone and light oil to hone the bushing to size. This took about a half hour before I could slip the rocker shaft through the bushing.

The modern rocker shaft seals are thin, so install two.
Q4: put secret marks on the new parts where you could see them before installing on the car.

If you're getting just the peg and not the rocker shaft assembly, and if the rocker shaft is worn, you may need to either replace or build up the metal on the shaft where it rides in the lower bush.

Again, you can establish all this on the bench before you decide how much outside service to get, if you're so inclined.
 
What is the best was to go about removing the rear bearing seat from the box? Ours is heavily scarred from the bearing breaking apart and eating it. I dont see any info in the manuals about removing the seats

Thanks
 
Be sure to check for play at the top of the housing where there is no bearing for the pinion shaft. Check it dry. Healey Surgeons said the play was OK when they rebuilt my steering box. That was a mistake. I should have had it bored and a bushing installed to remove the play. A small amount of side motion at the top causes significant play in steering.
 
Christophe,
The upper bearing race, the one that is in the box, is not a press fit. It is a slip fit but it does not fall out easily. You should be able to rotate it in it's groove with your finger but it will still not fall out. I have used magnets, the kind you can get that are attached to telescoping rods to help it get free. It will spin easily but the surface tension of the oil that surrounds that bearing race does not want to let it go of it easily. It is exactly the same bearing race that is at the bottom of the box.
The problem that you will probably have is that the damage is done not only to the replaceable race at the top of the box, but also to the race that is machined into the worn gear. It is hard to see this damage sometimes without the aid of a magnifying glass. Small pits and cracks have a major effect on those small ball bearings and the feel in the steering wheel. If you have damage to the race on the worm gear, I think you are screwed. You will new a different worm gear/shaft.
Someone on this list once said they had the worm gear race re-machined. Not sure if that is possible....or, economically feasible.
 
I've tried everything to get the upper race out of the box. When the upper bearing came apart it ate the race and fused it to the cast iron housing. I might end up needing to find a used box on ebay. What a mess!

Already have the new column and worm gear from dennis welch. We are in for about 700 on parts already.
 
UPDATE: I had to drill two holes in the back of the box big enough to fit a small punch through in order to finally get the SOB to pop out. It broke in two while knocking it out. Now I am going to thread the two holes I made and run small allen head plugs into them. It was either drill the holes or ruin the box trying to get the bearing race out another way.
 
Christophe, I have a good used box for sale. Send me a PM if interested.
 
Christophe,
Did you order the order from Denis Welch come with the peg too? Did you use the standard or high ratio?
John
 
Yes, it came from Denis Welch. After shipping, i believe it was $520.00. It did not come with the peg. The peg in the arm was perfectly fine, so i reused it. I wasn't about to pay 100.00 for that little piece if it wasnt needed, especially after buying the most expensive bearings and races on the planet. :smile:
 
I would assume that peg rotates freely at some points, or at least the wear pattern on mine would indicate so.

Here is my post from the build/restoration thread. I should have taken detailed pictures of the process since from what can tell, there aren't any posted online.

Steering box is repaired with the New Denis Welch column, new bearings and races, and new seals. The only thing i didnt replace was the bushing for the arm.

Small victories...baby steps!!! Turns like a champ now and is very smooth. I went with the standard ratio.




I still need to wetsand and paint everything, so don't judge. Should the top of the box be bare aluminum or painted black with the rest?



The race was too big and was pressed into place and partially fused after the bearing ate the lip of the cast iron and the race at the same time. I had to drill two small holes in the back of the box so i could get a punch onto the back side of the race/bearing seat in order to pop it out.



After I rebuilt the steering box, i used 3m panel bond to plug up the holes. You might call this a "Bubba" repair, but i assure you, it is not. This is not JB weld. I have used 3m panel bond to repair a cracked tractor oil pan before. This is probably one of the most amazing products I have ever discovered. I normally use it for gluing fiberglass panels on Corvettes, not for repairs. :encouragement:



Once it is done curing, about 8 hours, i will sand it and nobody will ever know that those holes were present.

 
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