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TR2/3/3A Steering Box end play

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Jayplum

Jayplum

Jedi Hopeful
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I understand the process to set the end play.
Is this possible without removing the assembly?

I have a ‘57 small mouth with a one piece column.
The box was gone through by me prior to my further education on this measurement, i.e. new bearings, etc. In addition suspension and steering all refreshed.
I have approximately 2” free play in the wheel and have already tightened the set screw for the Pittman shaft.
Bottom line is procedure; can this redo in the car?
 
Only if you are able to disconnect the steering assembly from the drop arm. The preload you are trying to set for the steering shaft bearings is so slight that you would not be able to feel it with the steering connected. In fact, it will be extremely difficult with the steering wheel installed too. You are trying to feel a few inch-lbs, by trial and error with shims, while the steering and wheel are adding ft-lbs to the "feel". Even then, you will be working upside down on your back, adjusting shims on the end plate while the outer bearing is trying to fall out every time.

If you have 2" of play, your issue is not likely the bearing end play anyway. Chances are your peg and/or worm gear are worn. Those are not repairable with the unit in the car. The peg wears at least 10 times faster than the worm, so a new peg will likely solve your problem.

I'd recommend waiting until you have time to do it right. It'll be less total time that way, with far less grief.
 
Thanks. I’ve ordered a new peg and will probably pull the shaft over the winter.
Just looking for a short cut. Even though they seldom work.
 
I remember buying a TR3 that had a gross amount of free play in the steering. The culprit was the silent bloc bushing (Moss #667-040). The rubber bushing had deteriorated to the point of non existence. Other culprits ( as John mentioned) are the peg and wear in the idler.
Berry
 
If I remember correct, to unhook the bar to replace the silent blocks you would end up freeing the idler arm and the steering box from the steering. That way you could replace the silent blocks and the idler arm and get a better feel for just how much play there is in the steering box. So if you have not done that--- that is what I would do.
steve
 
Thanks. All steering has been replaced. I did use the standard silent blocks and did not up grade to the more secure one’s offered by moss (not sure if those would have been better).
I began with 3”+ ; the tightening of the pitman arm brought her to 2”.
I believe John is correct and will pull the column and do a full inspection on the bench.
I have believed in doing it right the first time but me learning curve on a ‘3’ did not keep up on this one.
 
sp53 said:
If I remember correct, to unhook the bar to replace the silent blocks you would end up freeing the idler arm and the steering box from the steering. That way you could replace the silent blocks and the idler arm and get a better feel for just how much play there is in the steering box. So if you have not done that--- that is what I would do.
steve
Click to expand...

thanks I believe all that is ok but it certainly will be inspected carefully as I disassemble
 
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