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Stator tube on adjustable steering 100-6

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bighealeysource

bighealeysource

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Hey all,
Does the longer stator tube that goes the length of the
inner steering column extend out through the steering gearbox
end cover so that it is clamped onto by the olive and stator
tube nut ? I think my stator tube has been shortened at
some time in the past 52 years as it does not protrude out
the end cover as above. Seems like this is needed so the
stator tube assembly does not turn in the inner column.
Correct ?
Thanks,
Mike
 
You're right. The stator tube should protude from the steering box. Slide on the olive and tighten up with the stator tube nut to secure the tube and ensure an oil tight seal.
 
Thanks Johnea ! That's what I remembered from another Healey I had where I
replaced the wheel and pulled the trafficator assembly. Ordered a new stator
tube to take care of the current one that is too short.
Regards,
Mike
 
Mike,

Is your stator tube somehow "staked" so that the trafficator does not turn with the wheel. If so, how ? OR does the trafficator turn with the wheel ?

With my new R&P steering, my trafficator will now turn with the wheel and will have to be shut off/centered manually, but it and the horn will still work.

Because the bottom of my steering column is now a solid shaft and has a U-joint, solving how to get the 4 wires out of the steering column and connected so that they still worked through 3 turns of the column was a head scratcher.

Tim
 
Hey Tim,
That was my problem with the old one, the whole assembly turned with the
wheel as the stator tube was turning inside the inner column. The correct
way is for the stator tube to be clamped onto by the olive/compression fitting
at the end to keep it in a stationary position. I see why you have done it
the way you have with a solid shaft. I know I could have left it as is but
over time was concerned that the constant turning of the tube and the wires
twisting at the end would lead to a failure.
Regards,
Mike
 
Mike,

Given that your trafficator turned with the wheel the 4 wires undoubtedly would have failed "some day", but since they were twisting a max. of 1 1/2 turns each side of center over a length of 5 feet, failure was probably not going to happen soon.

A new stator tube is a pretty easy fix (I helped install one a couple of weeks ago) and then you won't have to chase the turn signal flag to turn it off. You will be much happier.


In MY case, installing the R&P involves adding 2 U-joints into the steering shaft. In actuality, I added the adjustable steering wheel splines from a 100-6 tube onto the top of a 3/4" diameter 100-4 tube, then added 6" of solid shaft to the bottom end of the 100-4 tube so that I didn't mount the U-joint onto a relatively thin-walled tube.

Tim
 
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