Static timing

[bob hughes]

I am sure that I saw a reference to static timing with a lamp recently but can not find it. When I was a lad far too many years ago, we used to set the timing on a mini using a small head lamp bulb in a holder and wired it up to the dizzy, set the crankshaft to the correct point - TDC I think, and then turned the dizzy until the light just came on for number one cylinder - points just opening. For the life of me I can not remember where the wires from the light went - I think that one was on the low tension circuit on the side of the dizzy and the other on one side of the points?? Can the Great Ensemble assist please.

Panic over, the grey matter has finally clicked in - the other lead goes to ground



Bob

 

[RAC68]

Hi Bob,

I’ve been there. After trading my 1958 Pontiac Bonneville Convertible for a brand new 1964 BJ8P1, I was often thrown by the lack of technology imbedded within my new ride. Going from a vehicle with dynamic point and timing adjustment to a feeler gauge and light bulb seemed odd but throwing in the accuracy of a micrometer really through me. Well it all worked.

Ray (64BJ8P1)

 

[MikeAH100M]

Best description of static timing I know of is in Norman Nock's compilation of technical articles called Tech Talk, page 87-88 in the 2009 edition Available through British Car Specialists www.britishcarspecialists.com. Norman says to connect one wire to the small wire on the distributor that goes to the coil and the other wire on the light to a good ground.

 

[Lambdaman]

I had to do the ultimate static timing last weekend when out in the 100 under high revs the distributor popped out from its clamp and I lost all timing and came to a complete stop. Miles from home with no tools and dark threatening skies I was up the creek. After weighing options of going home to get tools and attempt to retime on the side of the road or organising a trailer to tow it home. I was debating what tools were needed to determine top dead centre by either removing a spark plug or tappet cover when I had a moment of genius! I unscrewed the oil filler cap on the rocker cover and was able to see the exhaust rocker arm for cylinder no 4. By turning the engine over I was able to determine TDC for no 1 on the compression stroke by the movement of this rocker arm. It took 3 attempts to then feed in the distributer drive gear to correctly time it and I was bang on just as good as before it popped, a slow gentle drive home ensured to ensure it did not pop out again until it could be tightened

 

[AH100M]

Miles from home with NO TOOLS!? In a 55+ year old car! Yikes! I'll bet you'll never do that again!

Easiest way to have a 50% chance of finding number one cylinder TDC is to unscrew the plug for that cylinder (tool needed) and put a screwdriver (tool needed) in the hole and feel the piston come up as you either bump the starter with the button on the back of the solenoid or roll the car forward in top gear. Could be either TDC exhaust or compression but that's easy to figure out. Your way is more clever but some rather arcane knowledge is required (and remembered!).

 

[MikeAH100M]

I have also placed a wooden dowel in the #1 spark plug hole and rolled the car back and forth (rocking front right tire) to find TDC - where the dowel is pushed out the farthest. Some marks on the dowel help.

 

[nevets]

I made crude little gadget to find TDC / compression using a cork, a plastic straw, rubber band and a finger cut from a latex glove. The cork is inserted into #1 piston spark plug hole and the car is pushed in 4th gear until the latex finger fully inflates. Works quite well. See attached sketch...

 

[pkmh]

I made crude little gadget to find TDC / compression using a cork, a plastic straw, rubber band and a finger cut from a latex glove. The cork is inserted into #1 piston spark plug hole and the car is pushed in 4th gear until the latex finger fully inflates. Works quite well. See attached sketch...

Hey! Nice idea! Thanks for sharing.

 

[steveg]

Kudos Stevenakanevets - excellent idea!